Cordero Islands to Lagoon Cove

After a peaceful night at anchor in the Cordero Islands, we weighed anchor early to catch the tail end of the current at Green Point Rapids. Green Point is one of those rapids that commands respect more for its speed than its navigation. The passage is wide and forgiving, but the current can run five to six knots, making timing worthwhile.

Still, Green Point was not the real scheduling driver for today.

That honor belonged to Whirlpool Rapids.

Despite the dramatic name, Whirlpool is not particularly difficult in settled conditions, but currents there can reach seven knots. Our plan was to arrive near slack water and then pick up the favorable current on our stern as we continued west.

The reward for careful timing is the “back door” route to Johnstone Strait. By threading through the inside passages, we reduced our exposure on Johnstone to only about two hours — always a worthwhile objective on one of the coast’s more temperamental stretches of water.

This time Johnstone treated us kindly.

The wind and seas stayed comfortably astern, giving us a smooth and swift ride. For all its reputation, Johnstone Strait occasionally decides to remind cruisers that it can, in fact, behave itself.

Once we turned north into Havannah Channel, the water flattened almost immediately. The remainder of the run up Hanannah and through Chatham Channel was calm and protected, a sharp contrast to the open feel of Johnstone. After slipping through the Blow Hole, we made the short final run into Lagoon Cove Marina.

As always, we were greeted by the smiles of Kelly and Dan, the longtime owners and caretakers of this special stop along the Inside Passage.

kelly and dan’s home overlooks the marina

We simply cannot say enough good things about Lagoon Cove. It remains one of those places we look forward to both northbound and southbound. Part marina, part gathering place, part wilderness retreat, it has become a tradition for many Pacific Northwest cruisers.

This year we arrived to find some major improvements underway. The famous “party deck” has been tripled in size, and a completely new walkway now stands beside the old, all on fresh pilings. It is always encouraging to see wilderness facilities continuing to invest in their infrastructure rather than simply maintaining the status quo.

the old and new walk and deck are are remarable contrast

easy to see the thripped space for the “pary Dock”

welcome all to the new happy hour location

Not all the projects, however, were part of the original plan this winter.

The new large generator became necessary after the old faithful unit apparently produced its final watt.

two very impressive generators, one new and the other only a year older

Beyond the docks, power and facilities, Lagoon Cove offers something equally valuable after days aboard: room to walk. We always enjoy stretching our legs on the trails and wandering the property. No matter how comfortable the boat may be, time ashore remains one of the best remedies for the contained rhythm of cruising life.

the well marked rock on the shore side of the docks

Octopus Islands to Cordero Islands

Some anchorages are destinations in their own right. Others earn their place on a cruising itinerary because they put you exactly where you need to be for the next day's passage. The Cordero Islands manage to do both.

Located at the intersection of Cordero Channel and Mayne Passage, the islands sit immediately adjacent to Green Point Rapids, making them an ideal staging point for boats planning to transit the rapids and continue down Chancellor Channel toward Johnstone Strait.

For cruisers working their way north or south through the Discovery Islands, timing is everything. An overnight stop here allows you to position yourself for an early departure and a favorable current through Green Point, one of several tidal gates that help dictate travel schedules in these waters.

Fortunately, the anchorage offers more than just convenience.

One of the hidden advantages of the Cordero Islands is their proximity to Blind Channel. At only about a mile and a half away by dinghy. Blind Channel has long been a favorite stop for cruisers, and its small store can be a welcome resource when provisions begin to run low.

We took advantage of the short ride to replenish a few supplies. As often happens, what started as a provisioning run turned into a bit of shopping as well. I came away with a new book, while Karen found a new hoodie to add to her cruising wardrobe.

Back aboard OceanFlyer, we spent the evening watching the currents swirl through the surrounding passages while preparing for the next day's transit. One of the pleasures of cruising this coast is that even the "utility stops" often come with beautiful scenery, protected waters, and an excuse to explore somewhere new.

we lke to anchor between the island and mainland

most boats anchor in the larger northwest cove

looking over toward greene point rapids from the cordero anchorages

The Cordero Islands may not attract the attention of destinations like Desolation Sound or the Broughtons, but for those navigating the Inside Passage, they are a practical and enjoyable stop that we find ourselves returning to time and again.

mother nature decided to some cloud painting at sunset

Gorge Harbour to Octopus Islands

The Octopus Islands have long been one of the most popular cruising destinations in British Columbia, and it's easy to understand why. Whether your preference is anchoring in a cozy cove, stern-tying beneath towering evergreens, or spending the day exploring by kayak or dinghy, the Octopus group offers something for every cruiser.

Leaving Gorge Harbour, our first navigational challenge was Uganda Passage, located just northwest of the marina. The passage is well charted but features a pronounced dogleg that can make the navigation marks appear deceptive, particularly for first-times. As is often the case on this coast, the charts tell the story. Follow them carefully and the transit is straightforward and uneventful.

We made a lunch stop in Crescent Channel, an anchorage that Karen wanted to check out. Bottom line, no reason to go here. After lunch, our route took us through Beazley Passage and Surge Narrows. The name alone tends to get a boater's attention, but like most rapids and narrow passages in British Columbia, success comes down to timing. Arrive at or near slack water and you'll be rewarded with a smooth and stress-free passage.

Part of the appeal of the Octopus Islands lies in the journey itself. The entrances and passages require your attention, but none are particularly intimidating. Instead, they create a sense of having earned your way into a place that feels far removed from the outside world.

Of course, you're rarely alone. During the cruising season, many boaters share that same idea. Yet somehow the maze of islands, coves, and anchorages still manages to preserve a feeling of seclusion.

During a previous visit, I had marked a promising anchoring location after watching a Fleming settle comfortably into a quiet cove in the northwest corner of the islands. As we approached today, only a single boat was visible anywhere in the area. We made our way directly to that waypoint and soon had our anchor securely set in the very spot I had saved years earlier.

the view from above makes the anchorge apppear much larger than it feels

By late afternoon, the waters had settled into complete calm. The occasional call of a bird and the gentle movement of water against the hull were the only reminders that the world still existed beyond the islands.

lots of interesting shoreline ot explore

That combination of protected waters, intimate anchorages, and the feeling of being tucked away in a remote wilderness is what keeps cruisers returning to the Octopus Islands year after year. Some destinations impress with grandeur. The Octopus Islands charm you with tranquility.

the popular octopus island cozy anchorage

Texada Boat Club to Gorge Harbour

Today's run from Texada Boat Club to Gorge Harbour was an easy one—about three and a half hours through familiar cruising waters. Our destination was one we had not visited in at least a decade, and we were curious to see how this well-known stop on Cortes Island had evolved.

Gorge Harbour has long been a favorite destination for cruisers exploring the Discovery Islands and the northern reaches of Desolation Sound. Protected waters, expansive docks, and extensive shoreside amenities make it a natural gathering place during the cruising season.

the docks at gorge harbour

the docks are well maintained and inviting

The marina is now part of the Klahoose Resorts family and is proudly 100% Indigenous owned. While ownership may have changed since our last visit, the welcoming atmosphere remains very much intact.

One of the first things we noticed was the friendliness of the staff. Every interaction was met with a smile and a genuine desire to help make our stay enjoyable. Those small touches often leave the biggest impression.

if there is a cat around they will find karen for a petting session

The marina store deserves special mention. Marina grocery stores are often a mixed bag, but Gorge Harbour's is among the best stocked we have encountered anywhere on the coast. Whether you need provisions, forgotten essentials, or simply want to browse local products, chances are you'll find what you're looking for here.

We were also pleased to learn that the resort restaurant is expected to reopen in 2027. That will undoubtedly make Gorge Harbour an even more popular stop for cruisers looking to enjoy a meal ashore after a day on the water.

extensive shore side facilities at gorge harbour

Your moorage fee includes access to the resort's shoreside facilities, all of which are clean, well maintained, and clearly cared for. Throughout the property you can see evidence of staff pride and attention to detail. It's the kind of place where the facilities are not simply functional—they contribute to the overall experience.

picturesque pool and hot tube

bob soaks his sore foot

an afternoon beer on the deck overlooking the docks at gorge harbour

After ten years away, Gorge Harbour proved to be a welcome return visit. With excellent protection, ample moorage, friendly staff, and some of the best provisioning opportunities in the area, it remains a destination worthy of its reputation.

Secret Cove to Texada Boat Club

Some destinations are memorable because they are spectacular. Others become favorites because they simply fit so well into a cruising itinerary. Texada Boat Club falls squarely into the second category.

If you've followed our travels over the years, you've seen us stop here repeatedly—both northbound and southbound. Whenever we look at alternatives, we struggle to find another destination that checks as many boxes for a comfortable 2–3 hour travel day.

The marina itself is straightforward. There is no shore power or water service, and dock space is available on a first-come, first-served basis. A quick phone call ahead can often provide a sense of availability, and if the docks are full, there is good anchorage in the cove just to the northwest.

the Guest docks are the two on the right

Sturt Bay, Home to Texada Boat Club

The docks of texada boat club from the shore

is a grid here if you need it

What keeps bringing us back, however, is everything within walking distance.

The village offers a grocery store, a local museum, a pub, and our favorite stop of all—Mary, Mary Café. For us, a visit to Texada is not complete without lunch there, and true to form, that was one of our first stops after tying up.

mary, mary cafe never seems to change, which is good

never miss the opportunity to have and old fashioned milk shake. kids, ask your parents!

The marina's wharfinger continues to be one of the highlights of the experience. Friendly, helpful, and welcoming, she makes her rounds in the late afternoon to collect moorage fees and answer questions from visiting boaters. It is the kind of personal touch that seems increasingly rare these days.

Later in the afternoon, Karen set off to explore the Emily Lake Trail. While she reported that Emily Lake itself is not much of a destination, the walk through the forest was enjoyable and provided a welcome break from life aboard. After days of cruising, even a modest woodland trail can be an excellent antidote to boat claustrophobia.

the start of the trail up to emily lake

emily lake park has excellant signage all along the trail

the walk is well groomed and maintained

you have arrived at emily lake

Texada Boat Club may not offer resort amenities or luxury facilities, but it delivers exactly what many cruisers are looking for: a convenient stop, friendly people, a walkable community, and a chance to stretch your legs before continuing north.

Sometimes that's more than enough.