Nanaimo to Secret Cove

After an extra lay day in Nanaimo waiting for the Strait of Georgia to settle down, we finally pointed OceanFlyer south toward Secret Cove. As is often the case on this stretch of water, the forecast and the reality held only a passing acquaintance with one another.

The first third of the crossing delivered a steady one-and-a-half to two-foot sea on the port quarter bow. Not uncomfortable in a heavy stabilized boat, but enough motion to remind you that the Strait still deserved respect. Water mugs stayed mostly upright, though not some tending.

Out ahead, the reports from Merry Island Lighthouse and the Halibut Bank Buoy promised light winds and calm seas. We were skeptical of the buoy report, but the lighthouse, sitting firmly onshore along the eastern side of the Strait, offered a little more credibility. Sure enough, by the time Merry Island came into view, the water finally relaxed into the forecast we had hoped for all morning. The final leg into Secret Cove became one of those easy Pacific Northwest runs where the boat settles into rhythm and the miles quietly disappear beneath the keel.

We had visited Secret Cove once before, tying up at the marina in the north arm. This visit, Karen had her sights set on the smaller southern cove instead. The entrance immediately gets your attention — narrow, shallow. Favor the right side by staying just off the dock to your starboard. The rock pile on your port is marked by an enormous day mark concrete pillar. Entering on a plus .2-foot tide, we saw no less than 5.8 feet beneath our 5.3-foot draft, which certainly focused everyone’s attention on the depth sounder.

Inside, however, the reward was immediate. The little basin is intimate and sheltered, ringed with homes and docks, with just enough room for one or two visiting boats to anchor comfortably. Tucked into the cove is also an outstation of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. Given the holiday weekend, we expected the docks to be overflowing, but surprisingly only two boats were tied up.

secret cove anchorage in the southern arm

With the anchor set, we launched the dinghy and spent the afternoon exploring the maze of inlets and shorelines that make up Secret Cove. It is an interesting blend of waterfront homes, marinas, private docks, and the occasional tucked-away resort property. The area feels busy and secluded at the same time — very much the Sunshine Coast in character.

A stop at the Secret Cove Marina store proved worthwhile. The shelves were well stocked with everything from marine hardware to wine and groceries, while the fuel dock seemed to be in constant motion with weekend traffic. Perched above the marina is La Bettolina, an upscale Italian restaurant complete with white tablecloths and a featured $100 per person tasting. It looked excellent. We admired it from a safe financial distance and agreed perhaps “next time.”

well stocked store at secert cove marina

coffee with a bit of dock humor

Karen suggested we run the dinghy over to Smuggler Cove Marine Provincial Park, a longtime favorite among cruising friends. The three-mile ride was well worth it. The entrance is narrow but well charted, opening into a protected anchorage famous for stern ties. Shore tie chains hang from the rocks throughout the cove, ready to help visiting boats maximize space in the crowded anchorage. Compared to everywhere else we have visited so far this season, Smuggler Cove was positively bustling with traffic.

we never miss a chance to add to our collection of provincal park signs

And honestly, its popularity is understandable. The coves are beautiful, the hiking trails inviting, and the entire setting feels like a classic Pacific Northwest cruising postcard.

Back aboard OceanFlyer, dinner in the saloon followed by a little Netflix made for a fitting end to the day — the kind of quiet evening that reminds us why we cruise these waters in the first place.

Telegraph Harbour to Nanaimo

Our arrival in Nanaimo each spring serves one primary purpose: provisioning.

Over the years we have refined the process into something between a supply run and a well-rehearsed expedition. Crossing the border means there are certain items we prefer — or are required — to purchase in Canada, and after enough seasons cruising the coast, we have developed a reliable network of favorite shops.

Of course, provisioning in Nanaimo has also become an excuse to revisit some traditions along the way.

No trip into town begins without a stop at The Harbour Chandler. For cruisers heading north, it is arguably the best-equipped chandlery north of Bellingham. Conveniently within walking distance of the marina, it has become one of those mandatory stops where you inevitably walk out with at least one thing you did not know you needed.

Also within easy walking distance is Quality Foods Port Place, located in Terminal Park Mall alongside a liquor store and London Drugs. Even though we rent a car while in town, we are always reminded how much provisioning can be handled on foot from the marina.

And speaking of rental cars, Budget Car Rental will deliver directly to the Harbour Air office at the marina. That level of convenience matters when you are trying to maximize efficiency between weather windows.

For the major provisioning run, however, our destination is always Nesvog Meats. Before we arrive, I send them a detailed order covering nearly all our protein needs for the next five months aboard. Everything is packed and waiting when we get there. It transforms what could be an exhausting day of shopping into a remarkably smooth operation.

This year we added a few new discoveries to the routine.

For produce, we found ourselves impressed with Country Grocer, while herbs came from GardenWorks Nanaimo.

One of the pleasures of provisioning days is that, once the work is done, there is time left to enjoy the town itself.

This year we discovered Embers Wine & Charcuterie Cellar, another easy walk from the marina. The atmosphere is eclectic and relaxed, with an excellent wine selection and a build-your-own charcuterie menu that encourages lingering longer than originally planned.

build-your-own charcuterie pLATTER

But the culinary highlight of this Nanaimo stop was undoubtedly Horang Korean Inspired Restaurant & Bar.

if it is “tastier than yesterday” , I cannot wait ot come back

We arrived not quite knowing what to expect and left wondering how soon we could return. The fried chicken alone is worth the visit. The Horang Kimbap Crunch Prawn Roll may be one of the more unique dishes we have encountered along the coast — a towering combination of textures and flavors substantial enough for two to four people to share. Finish the meal with the Biscoff Tiramisu and you will understand why Horang has now earned permanent placement on our Nanaimo “must-do” list.

Horang Kimbap Crunch Prawn Roll

bob in his happy place enjoying great food

the Biscoff Tiramisu had to come back to the boat to be enjoyed after some digestion had occured

And then there is Penny’s Palapa.

Located right on the marina docks, it has long been woven into the culture of Nanaimo boating life. Ask almost any cruiser who has stayed at the marina and chances are they have eaten there at least once. At this point, we probably return as much for the tradition and nostalgia as for the menu itself.

This year also brought one final new experience.

Karen has wanted to visit Pipers Lagoon Park for years, and thanks to our efficient provisioning, we finally had the time. The walk combines beaches, rocky shorelines and elevated viewpoints that perfectly capture the rugged beauty of Vancouver Island’s coastline. At low tide, the route becomes especially easy since you can avoid climbing across the larger rock sections while still reaching the best viewpoints.

After days aboard, it was the perfect reminder that even a “work stop” during a cruise can still hold a little adventure. 

Montague Harbour to Telegraph Harbour

The weather finally remembered we were cruising the Pacific Northwest.

After an almost suspicious run of blue skies and sunshine, the clouds returned this morning as we pointed OceanFlyer north toward Telegraph Harbour. Not threatening weather by any means, just that familiar soft grey ceiling that somehow makes the Gulf Islands feel even more like themselves.

It has been a very long time since our last visit to Telegraph Harbour Marina, and arriving felt a bit like reconnecting with an old cruising friend. For us, it serves as the perfect staging point for tomorrow’s early run through Dodd Narrows at slack water — one of those passages that tends to shape the entire next day’s schedule.

Telegraph Harbour Maina looking back Southeast into Stuart Channel

Telegraph Harbour itself remains every bit as charming as we remembered. The marina has that classic Gulf Islands feel: relaxed, welcoming, and built around the simple pleasures of cruising life. Shoreside there is a small store, a coffee snack shop, light fare, and plenty of inviting spots to simply sit and watch the harbor activity drift by. The grounds are beautifully maintained, and families will appreciate the playground areas scattered about the property.

shore side path the telegraph harbour store

the delightful grounds of telegraph harbour marina

Ownership changed hands a few years ago, but the investment in improvements is easy to see. This season they are upgrading dock power service and overhauling the marina WiFi — two projects every cruiser can appreciate.

the very pleasent docks of telegraph harbour

the resident mooring fleet line the opposite shore

a short dinghy ride from Telegraph harbour is thetis island marina, home to the local pub/resturant

One of the hidden pleasures here is just a short walk from the marina. About three-tenths of a mile up the road sits the seasonal Howling Wolf Farm Market. Small, self-serve, and unmistakably local, it offers fresh vegetables, baked goods both sweet and savory, and the sort of treats that somehow never make it back to the boat without being sampled along the way.

you can’t miss a visit to Howling Wolf Farm Market

love this road sign

Tomorrow: Dodd Narrows. Which means tonight we set the alarms for an early departure.

Montague Harbour Lay Day

Some cruising days are made for covering miles. Others are made for slowing down and appreciating exactly where you are tied up.

Today was firmly the latter.

With OceanFlyer settled comfortably in Montague Harbour, we launched the dinghy and headed ashore to spend the morning walking through Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park — one of the most thoughtfully maintained marine parks anywhere on the coast.

The trail begins just beyond the park dock, winding through towering trees and shaded forest paths that immediately remind you why this park remains such a favorite among Pacific Northwest cruisers. The campsites are remarkably well kept, each one feeling carefully considered rather than simply placed in the woods. Elevated tent platforms, concrete pads beneath the picnic tables, purpose-built fire pits, plentiful fresh water, and spotless washrooms all speak to a park system that still takes real pride in the details.

nice park docks and facilities and Montague harbour

There is even a large covered pavilion that looks perfectly suited for everything from family gatherings to the sort of rainy-evening potluck that becomes legendary among boaters.

The well-maintained trail eventually leads to the shell beach along the north cove, always one of the highlights of the park. Even in the quieter shoulder season, it is easy to picture the shoreline filled with families and kayaks during the height of summer. We wandered along the beach for a while before picking up the trail again at the northwest corner of the park.

the “north shore” beach on grAY PENNINSULA with montague harbour in the distance

As the path climbed and curved along the shoreline, strategically placed benches invited the sort of pauses that are impossible to resist. A few minutes here. Another few there. The kind of unhurried stops that become the real rhythm of a lay day.

karen stakes her claim at montague harbour provincial park

By the time we completed our leisurely circumnavigation of the park, lunchtime had arrived — which made the next decision very easy.

Back at the Crane & Robin, we settled in for two generously sized salads, each topped with a perfectly grilled salmon fillet. Simple food, done properly, somehow always tastes better after a morning spent walking coastal trails.

yummy lunch at the Crane & Robin

Not every memorable cruising day requires the engines to be running.

mother nature does it again, what show off

Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour

The weather continues to steal the show on this trip. I hesitate to keep leading with it, but when every day delivers blue skies, calm seas, and barely a whisper of wind, it becomes impossible to ignore. We’ve honestly lost track of how many consecutive days we’ve enjoyed this stretch of postcard-perfect Pacific Northwest cruising weather.

the unmistakable turn point lighthouse

Today’s run from Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour was about as straightforward as passages come. Point the bow north, settle into an easy rhythm, and prepare for the usual ritual of clearing Canadian Customs.

Or so we thought.

Just after crossing the U.S./Canadian border and reaching for the phone to begin the customs check-in process, a United States Coast Guard patrol vessel eased alongside and hailed OceanFlyer.

Their intention was to board us, so we throttled back to a slow cruise and held our course while they came alongside.

As it turned out, this wasn’t exactly a first meeting.

Back in February we had been boarded by this very same crew — including one Canadian Customs officer — so what could have felt tense instead carried the tone of an unexpected reunion on the water. The officers were friendly, professional, and efficient, and before long they completed their inspection and returned to their vessel with a wave and a few smiles.

With that bit of excitement behind us, we finally completed our Canadian customs check-in by phone and continued north toward Montague.

The remainder of the passage delivered the usual organized chaos around Active Pass and Navy Channel. Traffic was particularly lively today. At one point we counted five ferries in view simultaneously, all threading through the channels with their usual sense of urgency. Add in a large Seaspan transporter and a scattering of sailboats, and there was plenty of entertainment as we worked our way into the lower reaches of Trincomali Channel.

Arriving at Montague Harbour, we found things still comfortably in shoulder-season mode. Mooring balls were occupied mostly by sailboats, along with a handful of fellow early-season cruisers clearly enjoying this rare run of settled weather as much as we were.

An early dinner at the Crane & Robin was, as always, one of those simple cruising pleasures that never disappoints. Afterwards, a stop into the little store revealed shelves freshly stocked with an impressively deep selection of actual books — paper books, no less.

tastey tacos at the Crane & Robbin

the corn chowder was the surprise hit

Perhaps this island has quietly become a refuge for the last generation of true page-turners.

pre-season sunset in Montague Harbour

we never get tired of the beauty of pacific northwest cruising