Nanaimo to Secret Cove

After an extra lay day in Nanaimo waiting for the Strait of Georgia to settle down, we finally pointed OceanFlyer south toward Secret Cove. As is often the case on this stretch of water, the forecast and the reality held only a passing acquaintance with one another.

The first third of the crossing delivered a steady one-and-a-half to two-foot sea on the port quarter bow. Not uncomfortable in a heavy stabilized boat, but enough motion to remind you that the Strait still deserved respect. Water mugs stayed mostly upright, though not some tending.

Out ahead, the reports from Merry Island Lighthouse and the Halibut Bank Buoy promised light winds and calm seas. We were skeptical of the buoy report, but the lighthouse, sitting firmly onshore along the eastern side of the Strait, offered a little more credibility. Sure enough, by the time Merry Island came into view, the water finally relaxed into the forecast we had hoped for all morning. The final leg into Secret Cove became one of those easy Pacific Northwest runs where the boat settles into rhythm and the miles quietly disappear beneath the keel.

We had visited Secret Cove once before, tying up at the marina in the north arm. This visit, Karen had her sights set on the smaller southern cove instead. The entrance immediately gets your attention — narrow, shallow. Favor the right side by staying just off the dock to your starboard. The rock pile on your port is marked by an enormous day mark concrete pillar. Entering on a plus .2-foot tide, we saw no less than 5.8 feet beneath our 5.3-foot draft, which certainly focused everyone’s attention on the depth sounder.

Inside, however, the reward was immediate. The little basin is intimate and sheltered, ringed with homes and docks, with just enough room for one or two visiting boats to anchor comfortably. Tucked into the cove is also an outstation of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. Given the holiday weekend, we expected the docks to be overflowing, but surprisingly only two boats were tied up.

secret cove anchorage in the southern arm

With the anchor set, we launched the dinghy and spent the afternoon exploring the maze of inlets and shorelines that make up Secret Cove. It is an interesting blend of waterfront homes, marinas, private docks, and the occasional tucked-away resort property. The area feels busy and secluded at the same time — very much the Sunshine Coast in character.

A stop at the Secret Cove Marina store proved worthwhile. The shelves were well stocked with everything from marine hardware to wine and groceries, while the fuel dock seemed to be in constant motion with weekend traffic. Perched above the marina is La Bettolina, an upscale Italian restaurant complete with white tablecloths and a featured $100 per person tasting. It looked excellent. We admired it from a safe financial distance and agreed perhaps “next time.”

well stocked store at secert cove marina

coffee with a bit of dock humor

Karen suggested we run the dinghy over to Smuggler Cove Marine Provincial Park, a longtime favorite among cruising friends. The three-mile ride was well worth it. The entrance is narrow but well charted, opening into a protected anchorage famous for stern ties. Shore tie chains hang from the rocks throughout the cove, ready to help visiting boats maximize space in the crowded anchorage. Compared to everywhere else we have visited so far this season, Smuggler Cove was positively bustling with traffic.

we never miss a chance to add to our collection of provincal park signs

And honestly, its popularity is understandable. The coves are beautiful, the hiking trails inviting, and the entire setting feels like a classic Pacific Northwest cruising postcard.

Back aboard OceanFlyer, dinner in the saloon followed by a little Netflix made for a fitting end to the day — the kind of quiet evening that reminds us why we cruise these waters in the first place.