Cordero Islands to Lagoon Cove

After a peaceful night at anchor in the Cordero Islands, we weighed anchor early to catch the tail end of the current at Green Point Rapids. Green Point is one of those rapids that commands respect more for its speed than its navigation. The passage is wide and forgiving, but the current can run five to six knots, making timing worthwhile.

Still, Green Point was not the real scheduling driver for today.

That honor belonged to Whirlpool Rapids.

Despite the dramatic name, Whirlpool is not particularly difficult in settled conditions, but currents there can reach seven knots. Our plan was to arrive near slack water and then pick up the favorable current on our stern as we continued west.

The reward for careful timing is the “back door” route to Johnstone Strait. By threading through the inside passages, we reduced our exposure on Johnstone to only about two hours — always a worthwhile objective on one of the coast’s more temperamental stretches of water.

This time Johnstone treated us kindly.

The wind and seas stayed comfortably astern, giving us a smooth and swift ride. For all its reputation, Johnstone Strait occasionally decides to remind cruisers that it can, in fact, behave itself.

Once we turned north into Havannah Channel, the water flattened almost immediately. The remainder of the run up Hanannah and through Chatham Channel was calm and protected, a sharp contrast to the open feel of Johnstone. After slipping through the Blow Hole, we made the short final run into Lagoon Cove Marina.

As always, we were greeted by the smiles of Kelly and Dan, the longtime owners and caretakers of this special stop along the Inside Passage.

kelly and dan’s home overlooks the marina

We simply cannot say enough good things about Lagoon Cove. It remains one of those places we look forward to both northbound and southbound. Part marina, part gathering place, part wilderness retreat, it has become a tradition for many Pacific Northwest cruisers.

This year we arrived to find some major improvements underway. The famous “party deck” has been tripled in size, and a completely new walkway now stands beside the old, all on fresh pilings. It is always encouraging to see wilderness facilities continuing to invest in their infrastructure rather than simply maintaining the status quo.

the old and new walk and deck are are remarable contrast

easy to see the thripped space for the “pary Dock”

welcome all to the new happy hour location

Not all the projects, however, were part of the original plan this winter.

The new large generator became necessary after the old faithful unit apparently produced its final watt.

two very impressive generators, one new and the other only a year older

Beyond the docks, power and facilities, Lagoon Cove offers something equally valuable after days aboard: room to walk. We always enjoy stretching our legs on the trails and wandering the property. No matter how comfortable the boat may be, time ashore remains one of the best remedies for the contained rhythm of cruising life.

the well marked rock on the shore side of the docks