Gorge Harbour to Octopus Islands

The Octopus Islands have long been one of the most popular cruising destinations in British Columbia, and it's easy to understand why. Whether your preference is anchoring in a cozy cove, stern-tying beneath towering evergreens, or spending the day exploring by kayak or dinghy, the Octopus group offers something for every cruiser.

Leaving Gorge Harbour, our first navigational challenge was Uganda Passage, located just northwest of the marina. The passage is well charted but features a pronounced dogleg that can make the navigation marks appear deceptive, particularly for first-times. As is often the case on this coast, the charts tell the story. Follow them carefully and the transit is straightforward and uneventful.

We made a lunch stop in Crescent Channel, an anchorage that Karen wanted to check out. Bottom line, no reason to go here. After lunch, our route took us through Beazley Passage and Surge Narrows. The name alone tends to get a boater's attention, but like most rapids and narrow passages in British Columbia, success comes down to timing. Arrive at or near slack water and you'll be rewarded with a smooth and stress-free passage.

Part of the appeal of the Octopus Islands lies in the journey itself. The entrances and passages require your attention, but none are particularly intimidating. Instead, they create a sense of having earned your way into a place that feels far removed from the outside world.

Of course, you're rarely alone. During the cruising season, many boaters share that same idea. Yet somehow the maze of islands, coves, and anchorages still manages to preserve a feeling of seclusion.

During a previous visit, I had marked a promising anchoring location after watching a Fleming settle comfortably into a quiet cove in the northwest corner of the islands. As we approached today, only a single boat was visible anywhere in the area. We made our way directly to that waypoint and soon had our anchor securely set in the very spot I had saved years earlier.

the view from above makes the anchorge apppear much larger than it feels

By late afternoon, the waters had settled into complete calm. The occasional call of a bird and the gentle movement of water against the hull were the only reminders that the world still existed beyond the islands.

lots of interesting shoreline ot explore

That combination of protected waters, intimate anchorages, and the feeling of being tucked away in a remote wilderness is what keeps cruisers returning to the Octopus Islands year after year. Some destinations impress with grandeur. The Octopus Islands charm you with tranquility.

the popular octopus island cozy anchorage

Texada Boat Club to Gorge Harbour

Today's run from Texada Boat Club to Gorge Harbour was an easy one—about three and a half hours through familiar cruising waters. Our destination was one we had not visited in at least a decade, and we were curious to see how this well-known stop on Cortes Island had evolved.

Gorge Harbour has long been a favorite destination for cruisers exploring the Discovery Islands and the northern reaches of Desolation Sound. Protected waters, expansive docks, and extensive shoreside amenities make it a natural gathering place during the cruising season.

the docks at gorge harbour

the docks are well maintained and inviting

The marina is now part of the Klahoose Resorts family and is proudly 100% Indigenous owned. While ownership may have changed since our last visit, the welcoming atmosphere remains very much intact.

One of the first things we noticed was the friendliness of the staff. Every interaction was met with a smile and a genuine desire to help make our stay enjoyable. Those small touches often leave the biggest impression.

if there is a cat around they will find karen for a petting session

The marina store deserves special mention. Marina grocery stores are often a mixed bag, but Gorge Harbour's is among the best stocked we have encountered anywhere on the coast. Whether you need provisions, forgotten essentials, or simply want to browse local products, chances are you'll find what you're looking for here.

We were also pleased to learn that the resort restaurant is expected to reopen in 2027. That will undoubtedly make Gorge Harbour an even more popular stop for cruisers looking to enjoy a meal ashore after a day on the water.

extensive shore side facilities at gorge harbour

Your moorage fee includes access to the resort's shoreside facilities, all of which are clean, well maintained, and clearly cared for. Throughout the property you can see evidence of staff pride and attention to detail. It's the kind of place where the facilities are not simply functional—they contribute to the overall experience.

picturesque pool and hot tube

bob soaks his sore foot

an afternoon beer on the deck overlooking the docks at gorge harbour

After ten years away, Gorge Harbour proved to be a welcome return visit. With excellent protection, ample moorage, friendly staff, and some of the best provisioning opportunities in the area, it remains a destination worthy of its reputation.

Secret Cove to Texada Boat Club

Some destinations are memorable because they are spectacular. Others become favorites because they simply fit so well into a cruising itinerary. Texada Boat Club falls squarely into the second category.

If you've followed our travels over the years, you've seen us stop here repeatedly—both northbound and southbound. Whenever we look at alternatives, we struggle to find another destination that checks as many boxes for a comfortable 2–3 hour travel day.

The marina itself is straightforward. There is no shore power or water service, and dock space is available on a first-come, first-served basis. A quick phone call ahead can often provide a sense of availability, and if the docks are full, there is good anchorage in the cove just to the northwest.

the Guest docks are the two on the right

Sturt Bay, Home to Texada Boat Club

The docks of texada boat club from the shore

is a grid here if you need it

What keeps bringing us back, however, is everything within walking distance.

The village offers a grocery store, a local museum, a pub, and our favorite stop of all—Mary, Mary Café. For us, a visit to Texada is not complete without lunch there, and true to form, that was one of our first stops after tying up.

mary, mary cafe never seems to change, which is good

never miss the opportunity to have and old fashioned milk shake. kids, ask your parents!

The marina's wharfinger continues to be one of the highlights of the experience. Friendly, helpful, and welcoming, she makes her rounds in the late afternoon to collect moorage fees and answer questions from visiting boaters. It is the kind of personal touch that seems increasingly rare these days.

Later in the afternoon, Karen set off to explore the Emily Lake Trail. While she reported that Emily Lake itself is not much of a destination, the walk through the forest was enjoyable and provided a welcome break from life aboard. After days of cruising, even a modest woodland trail can be an excellent antidote to boat claustrophobia.

the start of the trail up to emily lake

emily lake park has excellant signage all along the trail

the walk is well groomed and maintained

you have arrived at emily lake

Texada Boat Club may not offer resort amenities or luxury facilities, but it delivers exactly what many cruisers are looking for: a convenient stop, friendly people, a walkable community, and a chance to stretch your legs before continuing north.

Sometimes that's more than enough.

Nanaimo to Secret Cove

After an extra lay day in Nanaimo waiting for the Strait of Georgia to settle down, we finally pointed OceanFlyer south toward Secret Cove. As is often the case on this stretch of water, the forecast and the reality held only a passing acquaintance with one another.

The first third of the crossing delivered a steady one-and-a-half to two-foot sea on the port quarter bow. Not uncomfortable in a heavy stabilized boat, but enough motion to remind you that the Strait still deserved respect. Water mugs stayed mostly upright, though not some tending.

Out ahead, the reports from Merry Island Lighthouse and the Halibut Bank Buoy promised light winds and calm seas. We were skeptical of the buoy report, but the lighthouse, sitting firmly onshore along the eastern side of the Strait, offered a little more credibility. Sure enough, by the time Merry Island came into view, the water finally relaxed into the forecast we had hoped for all morning. The final leg into Secret Cove became one of those easy Pacific Northwest runs where the boat settles into rhythm and the miles quietly disappear beneath the keel.

We had visited Secret Cove once before, tying up at the marina in the north arm. This visit, Karen had her sights set on the smaller southern cove instead. The entrance immediately gets your attention — narrow, shallow. Favor the right side by staying just off the dock to your starboard. The rock pile on your port is marked by an enormous day mark concrete pillar. Entering on a plus .2-foot tide, we saw no less than 5.8 feet beneath our 5.3-foot draft, which certainly focused everyone’s attention on the depth sounder.

Inside, however, the reward was immediate. The little basin is intimate and sheltered, ringed with homes and docks, with just enough room for one or two visiting boats to anchor comfortably. Tucked into the cove is also an outstation of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. Given the holiday weekend, we expected the docks to be overflowing, but surprisingly only two boats were tied up.

secret cove anchorage in the southern arm

With the anchor set, we launched the dinghy and spent the afternoon exploring the maze of inlets and shorelines that make up Secret Cove. It is an interesting blend of waterfront homes, marinas, private docks, and the occasional tucked-away resort property. The area feels busy and secluded at the same time — very much the Sunshine Coast in character.

A stop at the Secret Cove Marina store proved worthwhile. The shelves were well stocked with everything from marine hardware to wine and groceries, while the fuel dock seemed to be in constant motion with weekend traffic. Perched above the marina is La Bettolina, an upscale Italian restaurant complete with white tablecloths and a featured $100 per person tasting. It looked excellent. We admired it from a safe financial distance and agreed perhaps “next time.”

well stocked store at secert cove marina

coffee with a bit of dock humor

Karen suggested we run the dinghy over to Smuggler Cove Marine Provincial Park, a longtime favorite among cruising friends. The three-mile ride was well worth it. The entrance is narrow but well charted, opening into a protected anchorage famous for stern ties. Shore tie chains hang from the rocks throughout the cove, ready to help visiting boats maximize space in the crowded anchorage. Compared to everywhere else we have visited so far this season, Smuggler Cove was positively bustling with traffic.

we never miss a chance to add to our collection of provincal park signs

And honestly, its popularity is understandable. The coves are beautiful, the hiking trails inviting, and the entire setting feels like a classic Pacific Northwest cruising postcard.

Back aboard OceanFlyer, dinner in the saloon followed by a little Netflix made for a fitting end to the day — the kind of quiet evening that reminds us why we cruise these waters in the first place.

Telegraph Harbour to Nanaimo

Our arrival in Nanaimo each spring serves one primary purpose: provisioning.

Over the years we have refined the process into something between a supply run and a well-rehearsed expedition. Crossing the border means there are certain items we prefer — or are required — to purchase in Canada, and after enough seasons cruising the coast, we have developed a reliable network of favorite shops.

Of course, provisioning in Nanaimo has also become an excuse to revisit some traditions along the way.

No trip into town begins without a stop at The Harbour Chandler. For cruisers heading north, it is arguably the best-equipped chandlery north of Bellingham. Conveniently within walking distance of the marina, it has become one of those mandatory stops where you inevitably walk out with at least one thing you did not know you needed.

Also within easy walking distance is Quality Foods Port Place, located in Terminal Park Mall alongside a liquor store and London Drugs. Even though we rent a car while in town, we are always reminded how much provisioning can be handled on foot from the marina.

And speaking of rental cars, Budget Car Rental will deliver directly to the Harbour Air office at the marina. That level of convenience matters when you are trying to maximize efficiency between weather windows.

For the major provisioning run, however, our destination is always Nesvog Meats. Before we arrive, I send them a detailed order covering nearly all our protein needs for the next five months aboard. Everything is packed and waiting when we get there. It transforms what could be an exhausting day of shopping into a remarkably smooth operation.

This year we added a few new discoveries to the routine.

For produce, we found ourselves impressed with Country Grocer, while herbs came from GardenWorks Nanaimo.

One of the pleasures of provisioning days is that, once the work is done, there is time left to enjoy the town itself.

This year we discovered Embers Wine & Charcuterie Cellar, another easy walk from the marina. The atmosphere is eclectic and relaxed, with an excellent wine selection and a build-your-own charcuterie menu that encourages lingering longer than originally planned.

build-your-own charcuterie pLATTER

But the culinary highlight of this Nanaimo stop was undoubtedly Horang Korean Inspired Restaurant & Bar.

if it is “tastier than yesterday” , I cannot wait ot come back

We arrived not quite knowing what to expect and left wondering how soon we could return. The fried chicken alone is worth the visit. The Horang Kimbap Crunch Prawn Roll may be one of the more unique dishes we have encountered along the coast — a towering combination of textures and flavors substantial enough for two to four people to share. Finish the meal with the Biscoff Tiramisu and you will understand why Horang has now earned permanent placement on our Nanaimo “must-do” list.

Horang Kimbap Crunch Prawn Roll

bob in his happy place enjoying great food

the Biscoff Tiramisu had to come back to the boat to be enjoyed after some digestion had occured

And then there is Penny’s Palapa.

Located right on the marina docks, it has long been woven into the culture of Nanaimo boating life. Ask almost any cruiser who has stayed at the marina and chances are they have eaten there at least once. At this point, we probably return as much for the tradition and nostalgia as for the menu itself.

This year also brought one final new experience.

Karen has wanted to visit Pipers Lagoon Park for years, and thanks to our efficient provisioning, we finally had the time. The walk combines beaches, rocky shorelines and elevated viewpoints that perfectly capture the rugged beauty of Vancouver Island’s coastline. At low tide, the route becomes especially easy since you can avoid climbing across the larger rock sections while still reaching the best viewpoints.

After days aboard, it was the perfect reminder that even a “work stop” during a cruise can still hold a little adventure.