Montague Harbour to Telegraph Harbour

The weather finally remembered we were cruising the Pacific Northwest.

After an almost suspicious run of blue skies and sunshine, the clouds returned this morning as we pointed OceanFlyer north toward Telegraph Harbour. Not threatening weather by any means, just that familiar soft grey ceiling that somehow makes the Gulf Islands feel even more like themselves.

It has been a very long time since our last visit to Telegraph Harbour Marina, and arriving felt a bit like reconnecting with an old cruising friend. For us, it serves as the perfect staging point for tomorrow’s early run through Dodd Narrows at slack water — one of those passages that tends to shape the entire next day’s schedule.

Telegraph Harbour Maina looking back Southeast into Stuart Channel

Telegraph Harbour itself remains every bit as charming as we remembered. The marina has that classic Gulf Islands feel: relaxed, welcoming, and built around the simple pleasures of cruising life. Shoreside there is a small store, a coffee snack shop, light fare, and plenty of inviting spots to simply sit and watch the harbor activity drift by. The grounds are beautifully maintained, and families will appreciate the playground areas scattered about the property.

shore side path the telegraph harbour store

the delightful grounds of telegraph harbour marina

Ownership changed hands a few years ago, but the investment in improvements is easy to see. This season they are upgrading dock power service and overhauling the marina WiFi — two projects every cruiser can appreciate.

the very pleasent docks of telegraph harbour

the resident mooring fleet line the opposite shore

a short dinghy ride from Telegraph harbour is thetis island marina, home to the local pub/resturant

One of the hidden pleasures here is just a short walk from the marina. About three-tenths of a mile up the road sits the seasonal Howling Wolf Farm Market. Small, self-serve, and unmistakably local, it offers fresh vegetables, baked goods both sweet and savory, and the sort of treats that somehow never make it back to the boat without being sampled along the way.

you can’t miss a visit to Howling Wolf Farm Market

love this road sign

Tomorrow: Dodd Narrows. Which means tonight we set the alarms for an early departure.

Montague Harbour Lay Day

Some cruising days are made for covering miles. Others are made for slowing down and appreciating exactly where you are tied up.

Today was firmly the latter.

With OceanFlyer settled comfortably in Montague Harbour, we launched the dinghy and headed ashore to spend the morning walking through Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park — one of the most thoughtfully maintained marine parks anywhere on the coast.

The trail begins just beyond the park dock, winding through towering trees and shaded forest paths that immediately remind you why this park remains such a favorite among Pacific Northwest cruisers. The campsites are remarkably well kept, each one feeling carefully considered rather than simply placed in the woods. Elevated tent platforms, concrete pads beneath the picnic tables, purpose-built fire pits, plentiful fresh water, and spotless washrooms all speak to a park system that still takes real pride in the details.

nice park docks and facilities and Montague harbour

There is even a large covered pavilion that looks perfectly suited for everything from family gatherings to the sort of rainy-evening potluck that becomes legendary among boaters.

The well-maintained trail eventually leads to the shell beach along the north cove, always one of the highlights of the park. Even in the quieter shoulder season, it is easy to picture the shoreline filled with families and kayaks during the height of summer. We wandered along the beach for a while before picking up the trail again at the northwest corner of the park.

the “north shore” beach on grAY PENNINSULA with montague harbour in the distance

As the path climbed and curved along the shoreline, strategically placed benches invited the sort of pauses that are impossible to resist. A few minutes here. Another few there. The kind of unhurried stops that become the real rhythm of a lay day.

karen stakes her claim at montague harbour provincial park

By the time we completed our leisurely circumnavigation of the park, lunchtime had arrived — which made the next decision very easy.

Back at the Crane & Robin, we settled in for two generously sized salads, each topped with a perfectly grilled salmon fillet. Simple food, done properly, somehow always tastes better after a morning spent walking coastal trails.

yummy lunch at the Crane & Robin

Not every memorable cruising day requires the engines to be running.

mother nature does it again, what show off

Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour

The weather continues to steal the show on this trip. I hesitate to keep leading with it, but when every day delivers blue skies, calm seas, and barely a whisper of wind, it becomes impossible to ignore. We’ve honestly lost track of how many consecutive days we’ve enjoyed this stretch of postcard-perfect Pacific Northwest cruising weather.

the unmistakable turn point lighthouse

Today’s run from Garrison Bay to Montague Harbour was about as straightforward as passages come. Point the bow north, settle into an easy rhythm, and prepare for the usual ritual of clearing Canadian Customs.

Or so we thought.

Just after crossing the U.S./Canadian border and reaching for the phone to begin the customs check-in process, a United States Coast Guard patrol vessel eased alongside and hailed OceanFlyer.

Their intention was to board us, so we throttled back to a slow cruise and held our course while they came alongside.

As it turned out, this wasn’t exactly a first meeting.

Back in February we had been boarded by this very same crew — including one Canadian Customs officer — so what could have felt tense instead carried the tone of an unexpected reunion on the water. The officers were friendly, professional, and efficient, and before long they completed their inspection and returned to their vessel with a wave and a few smiles.

With that bit of excitement behind us, we finally completed our Canadian customs check-in by phone and continued north toward Montague.

The remainder of the passage delivered the usual organized chaos around Active Pass and Navy Channel. Traffic was particularly lively today. At one point we counted five ferries in view simultaneously, all threading through the channels with their usual sense of urgency. Add in a large Seaspan transporter and a scattering of sailboats, and there was plenty of entertainment as we worked our way into the lower reaches of Trincomali Channel.

Arriving at Montague Harbour, we found things still comfortably in shoulder-season mode. Mooring balls were occupied mostly by sailboats, along with a handful of fellow early-season cruisers clearly enjoying this rare run of settled weather as much as we were.

An early dinner at the Crane & Robin was, as always, one of those simple cruising pleasures that never disappoints. Afterwards, a stop into the little store revealed shelves freshly stocked with an impressively deep selection of actual books — paper books, no less.

tastey tacos at the Crane & Robbin

the corn chowder was the surprise hit

Perhaps this island has quietly become a refuge for the last generation of true page-turners.

pre-season sunset in Montague Harbour

we never get tired of the beauty of pacific northwest cruising

Roche Harbor to Garrison Bay

With another successful Grand Banks Rendezvous in the wake, we slipped the lines at Roche Harbor and made the short run over to Garrison Bay. While the anchorage itself is always a pleasant destination, our real motivation lay just around the corner in Westcott Bay.

We had reservations at the Westcott Bay Shellfish Company for a Mother's Day dinner with crews from three Grand Banks yachts. Like many boating plans, the holiday was simply a convenient excuse to gather with friends and enjoy good food.

the shore side entrance to the westcott bay shellfish company

westcott bay shellfish company enjoying a mother’s day early season rush

The oysters here are about as local as food can get. Harvested within sight of the restaurant, they travel only a few hundred yards from tide flat to table. Neither Karen nor I would consider ourselves oyster enthusiasts, but the preparations here have made us repeat customers. Whether grilled, baked, or served in one of their seasonal specialties, they consistently find ways to convert even reluctant oyster eaters.

the source of all the yummy shellfish are in sight in westcott bay

a smal section of the acres of shellfish cultivation operation at westcott bay

We were the first rendezvous boat to arrive in Garrison Bay, but solitude did not last long. Throughout the afternoon, familiar Grand Banks silhouettes began appearing around the point, many of them fresh from Roche Harbor. Before long, the anchorage had settled into its usual summer rhythm as cruising boats of every description joined the fleet.

garrison bay is popular any time of the year

There is something comforting about Garrison Bay. The holding is good, the surroundings are peaceful, and the anchorage sits within easy reach of both Roche Harbor and Westcott Bay. It is no surprise that so many Pacific Northwest cruisers return here year after year.

For us, it was the perfect place to unwind after several days of rendezvous activities and reconnect with friends over an exceptional meal.

no leftovers here with these crews. don’t forget the big cookie after you have your fill of oysters

a peacefull night settles in at garrison bay

Westcott Bay to Roche Harbor

A Return to the Grand Banks Family

After several peaceful days in Westcott Bay, we made the short run over to Roche Harbor to attend the Puget Sound Grand Banks Owners Association Rendezvous. This year marked the event's 25th anniversary, and after at least a five-year absence, I finally convinced Karen that it was time for OceanFlyer to rejoin the festivities.

The turnout was impressive. Sixty-six Grand Banks filled the marina, creating a floating display of some of the finest cruising boats in the Pacific Northwest. Walking the docks felt like attending a family reunion where you recognize some faces immediately and meet plenty of new friends along the way.

A small sampling of all the grand banks filling the roche harbor guest dock

The rendezvous is much more than a gathering of boats. Over the next four days we attended presentations covering everything from vessel maintenance and cruising destinations to the latest equipment and upgrades. As always, the real value came from the dock conversations, where experienced owners share the hard-earned lessons that never make it into the manuals.

our friend, bill douglass, presenting a topic of much interest to the attendees

the best in the business when it comes to cleaning tanks, petero Clean, shared their years of experience

We also took advantage of the services available during the event. Our fire extinguishers were inspected, revealing that two needed recharging—a small discovery that made the trip worthwhile all by itself. OceanFlyer also underwent her Coast Guard Auxiliary Vessel Safety Check and passed with flying colors, always a reassuring milestone before a summer of cruising.

While I was attending to the Safety Check, Karen took the opportunity to attend the guided tour of the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park. This eclectic, yet renowned park covers 20 acres and is home to more than 150 sculptures. She returned singing the praise of the collection and the curator, who was the guide. The Park is an easy walk from the marina and well worth an hour or two away from the docks.

one of the 150 sculptures to explore at the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park

Of course, no visit to Roche Harbor would be complete without maple-glazed donuts form the Lime Kiln Café. After all, cruising may be about seamanship, navigation, and maintenance, but sometimes it is also about enjoying a warm donut with friends while overlooking one of the Northwest's most iconic harbors.

Roche Harbor Resort awaking to the spring blossoms

By the end of the rendezvous, we were reminded why these gatherings have endured for twenty-five years. Boats may bring people together, but it is the community that keeps them coming back. For us, it was a welcome return to familiar faces, useful knowledge, and a tradition that continues to thrive.