Honeydew Cove Lay Day

We woke to a patchwork sky—clouds dominating, but with hopeful streaks of blue breaking through. It was the perfect excuse for a slow morning filled with boat chores and a bit of remote work.

By afternoon, we had company. Karen had been tracking a boat on Marine Traffic and watched as it made a straight shot toward Honeydew Cove. Turns out, their original destination was Cannery Cove, but when they spotted a sliver of sunshine over Honeydew, they altered course on the spot—chasing that elusive bit of good weather.

neighbors arrive in honeydew cove

two to three boats can be comfortable in honeydew cove

The grotto at Honeydew Cove. Picture does not show how big it is.

looking for a dinghy landing place to visit the “grotto”

We totally understood the impulse… and quietly relished our good fortune at having already enjoyed a couple of decent days here before the next round of rain rolls in.

Oceanflyer enjoying a honeydew cove sunset

Eye of the Needle to Honeydew Cove

We timed our departure from Eye of the Needle for the high tide and were sent off by a committee of wildlife: a deer, two otters, and a black bear—none too close, but all part of the charm of this critter-rich hideout.

Sitka Black tail deer watches us as we depart

You know when you’re cute

Guarding Tebenkof Bay is a large islet we call Eagle Rock, Because it is always covered in bald eagles

Tebenkof Bay reported about 10 feet of water at zero tide, and with a +8’ tide under us, the passage was smooth and drama-free.

Conditions couldn’t have been better—calm seas, light winds, and high clouds broken up just enough for the sun to peek through. We didn’t get much help from the current, but the ride was pure pleasure.

Today was all about whales. Dozens lined the east side of Chatham Strait, feeding lazily. Off Washington Bay, distant humpbacks put on a show with tail slaps, flipper flaps, and the occasional breach—too far for the camera but perfect through binoculars.

As we rounded the top of Kuiu Island past Security Bay Marine Park, we hit the jackpot: a pod of 10 to 12 humpbacks bubble feeding. We idled to watch, grateful for front-row seats to this stunning display.

Humback Whales Bubble Feeding

We ended the day at Honeydew Cove, a scenic nook tucked into the northeast corner of Kuiu Island, protected by small islets. With beaches, a hidden grotto, and no one else around, we dropped anchor in 24 feet and enjoyed the solitude of this peaceful hideaway.

honey dew cove

enter between the two islets

the “pass” to the northwest is full of kelp. dinghies only

here’s a good look at the kelp at low tide

Explorer Basin to Eye of the Needle

Happy Independence Day from the Tebenkof Wilderness!

Mother Nature celebrated with us—clear skies, flat seas, and sunshine that felt downright luxurious after so many gray days.

a last look at Explorer Basin

happy sunshine at explorer basin

We decided to stay within the protected embrace of Tebenkof Bay but relocate to one of our favorite hideouts: Eye of the Needle. This tiny anchorage lies at the end of a winding, narrow channel, and we never pass through the area without a stop. The entrance requires a bit of attention—it's well-charted but dotted with rocks and shoals. We timed our arrival for a 9:20 a.m. high tide and had no less than 13 feet under the keel the whole way in.

Just outside Explorer Basin, we crossed paths once again with our cruising friends on Escapade and Empress. They’d spent the night just one bay over. We wished them fair seas as they began their journey south—always a pleasure running into good company along the way.

The wildlife welcomed us immediately. Humpbacks were bubble-feeding near Step Island, and as we nosed into the channel, Karen spotted two Sitka black-tailed deer along the shoreline. We anchored in 14 feet at low water, just beyond the small islet that marks the heart of this anchorage—a nice break from the deep-set hooks we’re used to in Alaska.

bubble feeding humbpack whales

powerful tail of a large humpback daining for dinner

eye of the needle is a one of a kind anchorage

any further in, the shoaling comes up quick

From our cockpit perch, the day unfolded like a wildlife documentary: a black bear on the west shore, then another on the east, a pair of sandhill cranes in the marsh, and otters twisting through the shallows—one with a curious, pale face. Our afternoon dinghy tour gave us more deer sightings, though the bears went shy... until dinnertime, when they returned to forage in the sedge and flip over rocks for snacks.

sitka black tail deer checking us out

No moose this visit, but we’re not complaining. Sunshine, solitude, and non-stop wildlife—this is why we keep coming back to Eye of the Needle.

Explorer Basin Lay Day

Clear skies greeted us after a peaceful night on the hook—a promising start to the day. Not long after coffee, a black bear sow and her three cubs ambled along the shoreline, adding a touch of wilderness magic. Later, a couple of deer made a quiet appearance, rounding out the morning’s wildlife show.

We spent the day by dinghy, poking around the surrounding coves and scoping out potential anchorages. Otters stole the spotlight, tumbling through the kelp like kids at recess. Not a bad way to spend a lazy day in paradise.

who you looking at?

Gut Bay to Explorer Basin (Tebenkof Wilderness)

We woke to a gray sky, but at least the rain had stopped—an encouraging start.

Just outside the creek, a small boat was setting subsistence nets—likely locals exercising traditional rights. They strung two nets across the creek mouth, anchoring them to shoreline boulders. Hours later, they hauled them in with only a few fish to show for their efforts. A lot of work for a modest reward.

setting net across the creek entrance

harvesting the catch

We didn’t fare any better. Our shrimp pot—soaked overnight—came up empty. Skunked.

With a clearing forecast and chatter on the cruiser network about whale activity in Tebenkof Bay, we lifted anchor and headed toward the Tebenkof Wilderness, a longtime favorite for both wildlife and scenery.

Chatham Strait was glassy and the current in our favor. As we neared the entrance to Tebenkof, two large cruisers slowed and veered—sure sign something interesting was ahead. Sure enough, a large pod of humpbacks was actively feeding. No bubble-netting, but plenty of surface blows and dramatic flukes.

We eased off throttle to respect their space, but not everyone was as tuned in. One cruiser drifted right into our path while their helmsman had eyes only for the whales. A quick call on the VHF snapped them back to the helm, and we passed safely. A reminder: distracted whale-watchers can be more hazardous than the whales themselves.

We also spotted a massive orca on our way in—not performing, just cruising silently through the strait.

We picked our way through the rocky guard islets and dropped the hook in 40 feet of water (at high tide) in the southeast corner of Explorer Basin. Under sunshine—finally—we soaked in the rare warmth.

explorer basin, good protection great views

ex[plorer basin in tebenkof wilderness is a gem

Explorer Basin is a gem: wide views to the west and north, sedge-lined shores, and a surprising sense of protection. The only company? Dozens of ghostly white jellyfish with long, trailing tentacles—not moon jellies, maybe white lion’s mane?

What are All those white spots? Jellyfish!!

As evening settled, the sun dipped low, the air was still, and we had the basin to ourselves. Here’s hoping the bears show up tomorrow.

sunset at explorer basin