Explorer Basin to Eye of the Needle

Happy Independence Day from the Tebenkof Wilderness!

Mother Nature celebrated with us—clear skies, flat seas, and sunshine that felt downright luxurious after so many gray days.

a last look at Explorer Basin

happy sunshine at explorer basin

We decided to stay within the protected embrace of Tebenkof Bay but relocate to one of our favorite hideouts: Eye of the Needle. This tiny anchorage lies at the end of a winding, narrow channel, and we never pass through the area without a stop. The entrance requires a bit of attention—it's well-charted but dotted with rocks and shoals. We timed our arrival for a 9:20 a.m. high tide and had no less than 13 feet under the keel the whole way in.

Just outside Explorer Basin, we crossed paths once again with our cruising friends on Escapade and Empress. They’d spent the night just one bay over. We wished them fair seas as they began their journey south—always a pleasure running into good company along the way.

The wildlife welcomed us immediately. Humpbacks were bubble-feeding near Step Island, and as we nosed into the channel, Karen spotted two Sitka black-tailed deer along the shoreline. We anchored in 14 feet at low water, just beyond the small islet that marks the heart of this anchorage—a nice break from the deep-set hooks we’re used to in Alaska.

bubble feeding humbpack whales

powerful tail of a large humpback daining for dinner

eye of the needle is a one of a kind anchorage

any further in, the shoaling comes up quick

From our cockpit perch, the day unfolded like a wildlife documentary: a black bear on the west shore, then another on the east, a pair of sandhill cranes in the marsh, and otters twisting through the shallows—one with a curious, pale face. Our afternoon dinghy tour gave us more deer sightings, though the bears went shy... until dinnertime, when they returned to forage in the sedge and flip over rocks for snacks.

sitka black tail deer checking us out

No moose this visit, but we’re not complaining. Sunshine, solitude, and non-stop wildlife—this is why we keep coming back to Eye of the Needle.