Gut Bay Lay Day (Happy Canada Day!)

Karen was up early enough to catch a glimpse of blue sky—by the time I rolled out of bed, it was back to classic Southeast Alaska drizzle. Still, we held out hope the weather would lift for some shrimping and dinghy exploring.

By late afternoon, the clouds parted just enough for a quick drone flight, and we wasted no time launching the dinghy. First stop: setting the shrimp pot. Then we cruised into Mickie’s Winter Basin, rechecking the narrow entrance and confirming about 2 feet at zero tide—tight, but doable at high tide. Inside, it was just as stunning as we remembered: cascading waterfalls and grassy flats framed by rugged peaks.

We scouted another potential anchorage before pulling our pot—no shrimp yet—so we dropped it again in a new spot for the evening. With high tide on our side, we pushed up the creek at the head of the bay. Low clouds lingered, but the scenery made it worthwhile: mossy banks, glassy water, and that wild, remote feel unique to these corners of Alaska. We made it almost to the little islet, capped with a lone tree, at the head.

Later that evening, a lone “go-fast” cruiser blasted into the bay, circled us once, dropped a pot over by our pot, and vanished just as quickly. Aside from that odd cameo, the anchorage was quiet—no bears, no whales, no eagles. Just the kind of peaceful solitude that makes these lay days worth savoring.

gut bay is a one of a kind marvel

Kelp Bay, South Arm Lay Day

After a string of early alarms, we finally treated ourselves to a proper sleep-in. A luxury at anchor—and much needed.

Outside, the rain was relentless. I managed a quick 10-minute drone flight during a brief pause in the drizzle, only to land it in a steady shower. Not exactly ideal flying weather.

The river with oceanflyer tucked in the little cove

low water shows the appraoch to the river is not withoutr its obstacles

The rest of the day was a mix of photo editing and blog catch-up. The damp gloom has definitely worn on us, and the idea of going outside for anything other than anchor checks held little appeal.

Still, nature gave us a few surprises. Karen spotted a Sitka black-tailed deer picking its way along the shoreline. And just before low tide, we saw nearly 60 harbor seals lounging on the alluvial flats. No rocky haul-outs here, so they made do with the muddy sprawl—something we’ve never witnessed before. By high tide, they’d vanished, save for one lone swimmer patrolling the cove.

Afternoon highlights included some meal prep and route planning for the coming week. Weather aside, this is a solid anchorage—calm, scenic, and surprisingly intimate for Southeast Alaska.

looking down the south arm of kelp bay from its head

cozy cove in the south arm

Deep Bay to Kelp Bay (South Arm)

A 5.5-hour run today took us to the South Arm of Kelp Bay. Under a blanket of low clouds and steady rain, visibility hovered between 1.5 and 2 miles—just enough to make out the ghostly outlines of granite peaks. The marine forecast called for wind and lumpy seas, and it delivered. We saw 30+ knots in Peril Strait, but the ride was surprisingly comfortable.

Traffic picked up, too—we passed five fishing boats and a couple of cruisers. Word is there’s a seiner opening coming, and the fleet is clearly on the move. With July around the corner, this kind of traffic will likely become the norm.

We chose Kelp Bay’s South Arm for two reasons: it was new to us, and we’d been inspired by the Slowboat blog’s account of dinghying up the glacial river at high tide. We anchored in the same general spot they used, thankful the dozen crab pots gave us some breathing room.

Kelp bay

oceanflyer tucked into the nook just off the shoals

Unfortunately, the rain didn’t let up, and the poor visibility nixed our river trip—the shifting shoals are no place to blunder through blindly. Still, the solitude was lovely, and the anchorage has a quiet beauty even in the gloom. We could make out the waterfall across the bay, but the dramatic ridgelines and jagged peaks will have to wait for a return visit in better weather.

Sitka to Deep Bay

After warm goodbyes to our friends on Escapade and Empress, we eased out of our slip at Float 2 in Sitka—carefully, thanks to a minus 3-foot tide. Today’s destination: Deep Bay, 33 miles ahead with one key obstacle—Sergius Narrows.

Sergius has a reputation, and rightfully so. With currents that can rip through at 7 knots, most mariners—us included—opt for slack water. Today’s was at 1:20 p.m., so we throttled back to avoid arriving too early.

As predicted, the AIS lit up with boats converging from both directions. Four targets, all checking in on the radio and negotiating passes like seasoned pros. It was textbook: smooth, courteous, and well-timed. Alaska really does attract good boat handlers.

We entered Deep Bay alone, but not for long.

This anchorage lives up to its name—it’s deep… until it isn’t. The head shallows up quickly, and it’s cluttered with crab pots right where you’d want to drop the hook. After circling and dodging the crab pots, we opted instead to anchor just west of Grasstop Rock, near the mouth. Cozy anchorage by Alaskan standards, with grassy shores and decent protection.

Setting the hook took three tries thanks to the rocky bottom. When it’s like this, I like to let out extra rode for the set, then pull it back in once the anchor bites. Worked like a charm.

The current ebbed and flowed, but the breeze stayed calm, making for a peaceful afternoon. Eventually, four more boats joined us—including a late-arriving Bayliner that brought a wake worthy of its own VHF warning. One anchored near the western shore, the others braved the crab minefield at the head.

Karen, on a wildlife spotting streak, scored again—this time a grizzly sow and two cubs grazing the sedge grass to our southeast. We had front-row seats to hours of foraging and bear family bonding. A perfect Alaskan evening.

Sitka Lay Days

June 24–26, 2025 – Sitka Lay Days
Three full days in Sitka—and even with gloomy skies, we had an absolute blast. We played tourist, ran errands, and soaked up all the quirky charm this town has to offer. Here are some highlights from our time ashore:

1. Rent a Car – Totally Worth It
Yes, it’s pricey. Sitka is spread out, and a car turns your visit into a mini road trip. It gave us the freedom to explore everything from the grocery stores to hidden local gems.

2. Provisioning Jackpot
Sea Mart and the Alaska Commercial Company (closest to the harbor) had everything we needed—and then some. After weeks of remote anchorages, it was a treat to roam full-sized, fully stocked aisles again.

ACC grocery is walking distance from the harbor

the SeaMArt Grocery has the best views of sitka sound. But you need a car or cab to visit.

3. Hardware Heaven
Don’t miss Sitka’s Ace Hardware or LFS Maine Supply. Both are well-stocked making boat projects a popular pasttime on the docks.

you can see the ace hardware from the docaks. and today we even briefy saw on of the many mountains that surround sitka

4. Fish Skewers & Stories at Sea Daddy
Sea Daddy might look like a shack, but don’t let that fool you—the halibut and yelloweye skewers were incredible. Karen gave the nod to the yelloweye. Scotty, the owner, is worth the visit alone: part chef, part historian, full-on character.

dpn’t miss sea daddy when you visit sitka

scotty gives a history lesson on the people of sitka along with some current local politics

5. Sitka’s Hidden Wonders – A Must-See Film
This 40-minute documentary by wildlife filmmaker Ben Hamilton is a love letter to Sitka’s rich ecosystem. Stunning footage of whales, bears, herring spawn, sea lions, and even jellyfish. Ben was there to chat before and after the showing. We booked online in advance—worth every penny. www.sitkawonders.com

ben is both talented and personable

6. New Archangel Dancers
A charming 30-minute show celebrating Sitka’s Russian heritage with colorful costumes and traditional dances. Performed by a dedicated, all-female volunteer troupe. It’s been a Sitka tradition since 1969.

they may be all women but they certainly are athletic

that smile never left her face

the costumes were amazing

our mistress of ceremonies, a former dancer and is now alos in charge of the costumes

7. Food & Friends
Dinner at The Galley with our cruising pals from Empress and Escapade was a riot. The next morning’s cinnamon rolls at Wildflour Café were equally memorable. Lunch there is solid, too.

Good food, friendly service and the closest resturant to the harbor

8. Metal Art at The Salty Sitkan – Our Favorite Stop
This class is shop class for grown-ups, taught by real shop teachers. We used grinders, torches, and polishers to create our own metal art—Bob made a sea otter; Karen tried her hand at a humpback whale. Eleven of us in the class, most off cruise ships. A total blast, and we each left with one-of-a-kind creation. Highly recommend!

the plasma tourch cuts out the steel you turn into a work of ark at The Salty sitkan

the workshop stations at upstairs. the bare metal critters hang on the stairs ready for you to choose.

karen’s humback

bob’s sea otter

9. Dinner at Beak
We wrapped up our stay with dinner at Beak, joined by Dave from Dagny, a 47’ Nordhavn. Great conversation and great food—classic Sitka.

KAren’s Macadamia crusted halicut at beak

The One Letdown: Petro Marine Fuel Dock
Easy to access, but the staff couldn’t be less helpful. Unlike the excellent Petro experiences in Ketchikan and Petersburg, Sitka’s crew didn’t even bother handing us the hose, let alone coiling it back up. A rare miss in an otherwise awesome stay.