Blind Channel to Big Bay

The passage from Blind Channel through Dent Rapids is very familiar to us—almost routine. But, as we have been reminded repeatedly this summer, even familiar waters can still deliver a surprise.

With the narrows in sight, a pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins appeared and began moving toward OceanFlyer. Usually, they gather at the bow, weaving through the pressure wave and darting beneath the boat. This time, however, they chose to play along our sides and in the wake.

From a photographer’s perspective, it was a welcome change. Instead of leaning over the bow and trying to capture dolphins flashing through the water below, we had a clear view as they surfed our wake, raced alongside us and launched themselves into the air.

pacific whitesides play in our wake

In a matter of moments, an ordinary passage through familiar waters became extraordinary.

The dolphins eventually moved on, but they had already set the tone for the day. One of the great advantages of cruising is that there is always something new to discover—even in waters you have traveled many times before.

Trying new destinations has been one of the themes of this year’s cruise, so rather than simply continuing through Dent, Gillard and Yuculta Rapids, we turned toward Big Bay on Stuart Island.

We pass this area almost every year. Usually, however, our attention is focused on safely navigating the three rapids in quick succession. These passages demand careful planning around the currents, leaving little opportunity to study the large properties, lodges and intriguing shorelines on either side of the channel.

This time, instead of passing by, we decided to stop and explore.

Stopping at Big Bay

Our afternoon arrival had been dictated by slack water at Dent Rapids. By the time we tied up at the Stuart Island Community Docks, the day was already winding down.

everyone makes you feel welcomed at sturat island community docks

no power on the docks, but other services abound

Jodie, one of only two permanent residents, greeted us at the office and gave us a warm welcome and a thorough orientation to the docks and surrounding area. There is no shore power, but fresh water is available near the head of the docks. Depending on where a boat is moored, it may need to be moved to reach the water source.

sturat island cummunity docks

looking back toward coldero and dent rapids

very nice docks

The docks are more than simply a place for visiting boaters to tie up. Stuart Island lies at the mouth of Bute Inlet, about 40 kilometres north of Campbell River, surrounded by some of the fastest and most challenging tidal passages on the British Columbia coast. This is the traditional territory of the Xwémalhkwu, or Homalco First Nation, whose people are known as the People of the Fast-Running Waters—an especially fitting name for this region.

In more recent times, Big Bay served as an important service centre for fishermen, boaters and the small number of people living year-round on Stuart, Sonora and Dent islands, as well as along the neighbouring mainland.

Big Bay Resort and Marina once offered a store, post office, restaurant, fuel dock, showers, laundry and other essential services. When the resort was sold to private interests and closed in 2005, many of those services disappeared.

The Stuart Island Community Association responded by converting its community hall into a combined store and gathering place. It also worked to rebuild and expand the public dock. What visiting boaters see today is therefore not simply a recreational marina. It is part of the infrastructure that has helped a small and isolated community remain connected.

offcie, store and community pavilon

you’re welcome to use the bbq and other facilities

great views form the community pavilion

After settling OceanFlyer into her berth, we called it a day and began planning the next morning’s exploration.

big bay resort and marina is private and dominates the shoreline

A Walk to Eagle Lake

Our first outing was the walk to Eagle Lake.

It is an easy hike of about 1.3 miles along pleasant trails and gravel roads. The lake takes its name from the bald eagles that nest in the area. We saw only a few in the distance, but the walk gave us a completely different perspective on Stuart Island.

nice path to eagle lake

some areas need work

sometimes the path to eagle lake is a gravel road

thena was the first to arrive at the lake

eagle lake

janice and karen scan for eagles

From the water, the island appears steep, rocky and heavily forested. Inland, we found quiet wooded roads, open areas and freshwater habitat—an entirely different landscape from the granite shorelines and fast-moving channels that define the island from a boat.

It was a good reminder that cruising often shows us only the outer edges of a place. Sometimes we need to step ashore to discover what lies beyond the waterfront.

Exploring the Neighborhood

Our afternoon exploration required another look at the current tables.

We wanted to tour the area by dinghy, so we timed our departure for slack water at Gillard Rapids. Even near slack, these waters hold your attention. The narrow channels, steep mountains and visible evidence of powerful currents make it easy to understand how the waterways have shaped nearly every aspect of life here.

Once clear of the immediate current, we could slow down and take in a neighbourhood we had previously seen only in passing.

Within a few miles of Big Bay is an extraordinary collection of wilderness lodges, private retreats and resort properties. Sonora Resort sits across the channel, while Dent Island Lodge lies back toward Dent Rapids. Stuart Island itself is home to several lodges and substantial private estates.

sonora resort sits across the channel under massive granite domes

kenmore air arrives at dent island lodge

Just around Arran Point is the expansive Stuart Island property associated with Dennis Washington, owner of Seaspan Marine. The estate includes Arran Point Lodge, extensive landscaped grounds, marine facilities and Wildflower Golf Course.

The private nine-hole executive course, designed by Robert Trent Jones II, opened in 1999. From the water, its carefully maintained fairways and greens make an unexpected appearance on a shelf of land between the forest, exposed granite and the channel.

The golf course is impressive, but so is the infrastructure required to support it. There is no public road or ferry access to Stuart Island. Workers, guests and supplies must arrive by water taxi, floatplane or other marine transportation. A paved private airstrip sits atop the mountain, while substantial docks provide marine access to the lodge, residences and supporting facilities.

everyone should have a marina, golf course adn helipad in their front yard

around the corner is the basketball court

Together, the lodge, golf course, airstrip and docks form a largely self-contained operation in a remarkably remote location.

not certain what its function is, but the unusual architecture is built on a floating barge

As we continued around Arran Point, we encountered another impressive sight: the approximately 68-metre motor yacht Attessa III moored at a private dock.

tucked in the next cove a dock with the atessa iii

Dennis Washington has owned several yachts bearing the Attessa name, but seeing one here helped put the scale of the property’s marine facilities into perspective. Even among the commercial vessels and large pleasure craft that regularly travel these channels, a yacht of that size commands attention.

It was exactly the kind of sight we had missed during all our previous passages. When your attention is focused on timing the rapids and managing the current, there is little opportunity to study the shoreline. Moving slowly in the dinghy near slack water, we finally had time to take it all in.

A Natural Soundtrack

The elaborate lodges, manicured golf course and large yacht were only part of the afternoon’s entertainment.

On our return trip, we passed the sea lion haulout on the rocks near Sonora Resort. There was no need to search for it. We had been able to hear the sea lions bellowing from the docks at Big Bay long before we saw them.

no question who owns this rock

Up close, both their size and volume were even more impressive. They provided a fitting contrast to the carefully maintained properties nearby. In one short dinghy ride, we had moved from powerful tidal water to private resorts and manicured fairways, and then to a rocky shoreline claimed by a noisy gathering of sea lions.

That unlikely combination is part of what makes this area so fascinating.

Worth the Stop

Our first visit to Big Bay was a success.

The walk to Eagle Lake introduced us to the quieter interior of Stuart Island. Our dinghy exploration gave us a much better look at the lodges, private properties and wildlife surrounding the channel. And the community docks allowed us to experience a place we had passed almost every year without really seeing.

Most importantly, the visit reinforced one of the central themes of this summer’s cruise. It is easy to become focused on the next rapid, anchorage or destination. Sometimes, however, the places we have been passing for years are the ones most worth slowing down to explore.

Big Bay was one of those discoveries.

We will be back.

sunset at big bay community docks