Cannery Cove Layday

We woke to calm seas and a soft ceiling of clouds. After breakfast, the two other boats pulled anchor and motored off, leaving us with Cannery Cove entirely to ourselves—just us and the wildlife.

oceanflyer in scenery cove

looking back from the head of scenery cove at oceanflyer

the shoaling at the head of scenery cove is impressive and extend well into the anchorage

And the wildlife didn’t disappoint. Bears were grazing on sedge grass along the shoreline while deer meandered through the trees. After waiting for a bit of sun to peek through, we set off on a dinghy adventure that covered 13.4 miles over three hours.

First stop: Pybus Point Lodge. It’s grown since our last visit nine years ago—new buildings, slick facilities, and a real shift in focus. Tyson, a friendly 10-year veteran of the lodge staff, filled us in. As Alaska tightens catch limits for non-residents, Pybus is pivoting from hardcore anglers to adventure travelers and families. Think Tracy Arm glacier tours, Baranof Hot Springs runs, and yes, a yoga gazebo. The week’s guest count? Thirty-five out of a possible forty-six. Clearly, business is booming.

We also scoped out a striking new home deeper in the cove—not part of the lodge, but a private retirement retreat built with lodge help. With those sweeping views, it's hard to imagine a more peaceful spot to grow old.

From there, we ran to the head of Pybus Bay—an alpine valley framed by soaring hills, dotted with herons and bald eagles. A small islet there offers potential protection from wind-driven chop. Then it was on to Donkey Bay, where we’d seen an AIS anchor target earlier. On the way, Karen spotted a mama grizzly with three cubs at Sheldon Cove. We drifted in quietly and captured the scene on camera—one of those moments that makes every mile worthwhile.

the head of pybus bay

go back to the previous photo and see if you can spot us in the dinghy. Hint, we’re the spot just above and to the right of the trees on the island

Sheldon itself is scenic, though entry’s a little tight and swing room is limited. Oh, and it has bears.

Mama bear and her three cubs in sheldon cove

Back in Cannery Cove, we joined a couple of lodge boats along the shoreline for more grizzly watching. But as we approached OceanFlyer, Karen noticed the starboard floor of the dinghy felt wet. Uh-oh. Two years ago, we’d patched a delamination on the starboard pontoon while on Vancouver Island. That repair held—until now. A new delam spot had opened up. Boo hiss. Another field fix goes on tomorrow’s to-do list.

But for tonight, we had Cannery Cove entirely to ourselves. Bears, eagles, calm water, and solitude—Alaska magic at its finest.

this early in the season only grass is on the menu