Sandborn Canal to Cannery Cove: Critters Galore and Grizzlies on Parade

We woke to rain and a thick ceiling of gray—par for the course lately—but it was time to move on. Today’s run across Frederick Sound to Cannery Cove clocked in at nearly four hours. It’s a short hop on the chart, but as always in Alaska: everything’s bigger than it looks.

grey, but nice ride across frederick sound

The west side of Frederick was forecast to be slightly drier. Maybe. Possibly. Hopefully.

Our motivation for returning to Alaska this year was simple: wildlife. So far, it’s been a bit quiet on the critter front, but today broke the dry streak. We spotted half a dozen humpbacks feeding along the shores of Admiralty and San Juan Islands—no dramatic breaches, just steady blows and slow-motion dives in the shallows.

Then Karen lit up with a string of sightings: a raft of otters lounging on a charted rock west of San Juan Island (a rare group hangout), and then—two deer picking their way through shoreline grass as we approached Cannery Cove. That’s when things really got interesting.

Within minutes of anchoring, two grizzlies appeared on the north shore, grazing on sedge like it was an all-you-can-eat buffet. A short while later, another bear emerged at the head of the cove. Not long after that? Two more. Five bears in one evening. Jackpot.

far away, but stll counts as a grizzley sighting

The rain tapered off, though the clouds clung to the peaks, still hiding the mountain drama we know is out there. Maybe tomorrow.

Onshore, Pybus Point Lodge has officially opened for the season—their first guests just arrived yesterday. A massive new building has popped up just west of the lodge. Judging by the size, we’re speculating it’s either an expansion or the most ambitious private fish camp we’ve seen yet.

As dinner rolled around, our original two bears returned for seconds, while two others ambled into view farther up the shore. It was a full-on grizzly revue, and made the company of two other anchored boats well worth it.