Blunden Harbour to Sointula Harbour
/We left Blunden Harbour unsure whether we would actually make Sointula our destination for the day.
That was not an ominous prediction—just the reality of visiting a busy, first-come, first-served harbor. Sointula is home to a sizable fishing fleet, and when the boats are in port rather than out working, finding space for a cruising boat can be difficult.
A cruising friend had secured the last available spot only a few days earlier, and even then had barely managed to squeeze in.
Regardless of where we eventually tied up, the crossing of Queen Charlotte Strait was one for the record books. The water was flat, the wind remained calm, and the easy conditions continued for the entire passage.
It does not get any smoother than this
Our good fortune held when Karen called the harbor master. Rather than hearing that the harbor was full, she was told we could choose from five available spaces spread among three docks.
A fine welcome form Sointula Harbour
We were happy to accept the unexpected abundance of options, while knowing that Mother Nature will undoubtedly have something quite different waiting for us on a future crossing.
It had been a very long time since we visited Sointula aboard our own boat. More often, we have left OceanFlyer in Port McNeill and taken the ferry across, avoiding the uncertainty of finding moorage.
That made tying up in Sointula Harbour feel like a special treat.
It 1.5 miles from the docks to the town where the ferry arrives
busy sointula harbour
Our first stop was the Burger Barn at the head of the dock. Restaurants are scarce on Malcolm Island, so this small red shack with outdoor seating is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Our burgers hit the spot, and my vanilla milkshake did not disappoint.
the famous burger barn
After spending much of the previous week boat-bound by rain, we made good use of the newly arrived sunshine and walked the mile and a half into town.
First Avenue follows the waterfront, offering views across the water and a look at the many new or beautifully restored homes occupying this prized stretch of shoreline.
even the retaining wall shows the pride the people have in their community
Not every historic waterfront enterprise has given way to residential development. Tarkanen Marine Ways remains in operation and is one of the few places in this part of British Columbia capable of hauling a boat.
one of the ways at Tarkanen Marine
there are three ways available
f/V Night Moves gets some love on the ways at Tarkanen Marine
The following morning, after coffee aboard OceanFlyer, we walked up to Coho Joe’s Café & B&B for breakfast—or perhaps brunch by the time we arrived.
Coho Joe’s is essentially Sointula’s only traditional restaurant, with a menu centered on breakfast, lunch, coffee, and baked goods. Its regular hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Because it was British Columbia Day, we were pleased to find them open.
Coho joe’s is a busy place for good reason
After brunch, we stopped at Malcolm Island Food Company to survey the prepared foods, baked goods, and other tempting offerings.
We first discovered this little gem shortly after it opened several years ago. Judging by the selection and steady stream of customers, they have clearly made a success of it.
the co-op is the heaart of sointula
With our bags filled with a mixture of practical provisions and indulgent treats, we began the walk back toward the harbor.
About halfway there, a pickup truck pulled alongside us and the driver asked whether we would like a ride to the docks.
Naturally, we accepted.
Our driver turned out to be one of those wonderfully friendly people who make small communities so memorable. He had spent nearly his entire life on the island, apart from summers working in Prince Rupert. He was on his way to complete a few projects aboard a large fishing boat before the crew headed out for the next sockeye run.
During the ride, he also corrected our pronunciation of Sointula. We had always said it more like “Sun-tula,” but the first syllable is closer to a long “o”—“Sōin-tula.”
It was a small lesson, delivered during an unexpected ride from a complete stranger.
And, as so often happens while cruising, it was the unplanned experience that became one of the most memorable parts of the visit.
Sointula Harbour. We’ll be back!