Octopus Islands to Von Donop Inlet

Once again, the tides set our schedule. This morning it was slack water at the Blow Hole calling the shots, so we timed our departure from the Octopus Islands to pass through comfortably before turning south toward Von Donop Inlet.

We were not alone. Nearly half the anchorage seemed to get underway with us. Some boats peeled off toward Hole in the Wall, while others continued on to catch the current through Beazley Passage. It is a pattern we have noticed all week: as the cruising season begins to wind down, more and more boats seem to be traveling in the same direction we are.

Von Donop is a popular stop, and it is easy to understand why. Once through the entrance, the inlet stretches inland for several miles, its long, protected waters eventually opening into a broad bay at the head. The entrance channel narrows briefly near a charted rock, but by favoring the west side, the passage is straightforward.

Most boats continue to the large anchorage at the head of the inlet. We had a smaller and less-traveled destination in mind: Mud Bay, tucked along the eastern shore.

The shallow water shown on the chart discourages many boats from entering, but our calculations indicated we should have about 4.5 feet beneath OceanFlyer’s keel at the predicted 5.6-foot low tide at Whaletown Bay. That is less clearance than we normally prefer, but Mud Bay offered excellent protection—and a chance to stay ahead of the procession gathering behind us.

One boat had already claimed the spot in the northeast corner, secured with a stern tie. We anchored farther out in the open water and settled in for a quiet evening. From there, we watched a steady parade of boats pass our little corner and continue toward the main anchorage.

mud bay in von donop inlet

looking north toward the entrance to von donlop inlet

Our plan to avoid the crowd appeared to be working perfectly.

The following morning, we launched the dinghy to explore one of Von Donop’s real prizes: the lagoon at the very head of the inlet. We timed our first attempt for about two hours before high water at Whaletown Bay.

We were too early.

The current was still pouring through the narrow entrance, creating water that could politely be described as “sporty.” There was no reason to force the issue, so we turned around and spent the next hour touring the anchorage instead, poking into its many coves and corners. Even with a surprising number of boats scattered throughout the inlet, Von Donop is large enough that it never feels truly crowded.

the anchorage at the head of von donlop inlet

After an hour of exploring, we returned to the lagoon entrance, hoping the current had eased.

It had not.

The lagoon clearly intended to keep its own schedule, so we pointed the dinghy back toward OceanFlyer. We told ourselves that appetizers and shrimp stir-fry were more appealing anyway—which sounded much better than admitting the lagoon had gotten the better of us.

Everything along this coast operates on its own timetable. Today, the lagoon simply declined to cooperate with ours.

There is still plenty of cruising season left.

We will be back for a rematch during a future cruise.