Codville Lagoon to Eucott Bay

The final day of May found us continuing north up Dean Channel toward Eucott Bay, a small, protected basin tucked beneath towering granite cliffs and best known for its natural hot springs.

The hot springs themselves weren't our primary motivation. Neither of us has ever been particularly drawn to soaking in hot pools. Instead, we were looking forward to another spectacular run through British Columbia's coastal wilderness, the possibility of setting a few prawn traps near the entrance, and the chance to visit yet another destination that had somehow escaped us despite years of cruising these waters.

Dean Channel certainly didn't disappoint.

a vbeautiful run up dean channel

Under brilliant blue skies, snow-covered peaks surrounded us in every direction. This is the British Columbia coastline that keeps drawing us back year after year—immense granite mountains rising almost vertically from the sea, while beneath the keel the chart often showed depths exceeding 1,800 feet.

With so much snowmelt pouring into the channel, our depth sounder provided an unexpected lesson in oceanography. Rather than measuring the true depth, it repeatedly locked onto the freshwater layer floating above the heavier saltwater, reporting a depth of only about 15 feet. It's a fascinating reminder that this dramatic landscape, both above and below the waterline, was sculpted by glaciers that once filled these valleys.

As we approached the narrow entrance to Eucott Bay, wildlife welcomed us in spectacular fashion. Two grizzly bears appeared along the shoreline—the first bears of our cruise. Moments later, after easing into the anchorage while searching for the best place to set the hook, another massive bear looked up from the beach, gave us little more than a passing glance, and calmly returned to whatever occupied his morning.

looking back out the entrance to eucott bay

It turned out to be only the beginning.

The following morning's low tide exposed another hundred yards of beach, transforming the shoreline into what seemed like a grizzly gathering place. By the time we finished our coffee, we had counted roughly fifteen bear sightings.

eucott bay has spectacular views in all directions

look close and follow the line of old pilings to find the hot tub

What fascinated us most was the remarkable range of color. One enormous boar was so dark he appeared almost black. Others wore the classic rich brown coat most people associate with grizzlies, while two much lighter bears looked almost blond as they methodically searched the exposed shoreline for breakfast.

The bears may have stolen the show, but they weren't the day's only entertainment.

Throughout the afternoon, a steady procession of cruising boats arrived, each crew making the pilgrimage to the famous hot springs. The first visiting couple apparently decided that clothing was entirely optional for the occasion. Later, the crew of a sailboat made the muddy hike to the springs before returning to the beach and enthusiastically plunging into the bay's 55-degree water.

snow stills hangs onto the the tall mountains

low tides reveals the impressive Alluvial mud flats

From the comfort of OceanFlyer's salon, coffee mugs in hand, we admired their adventurous spirit.

Some experiences are simply more enjoyable to watch than to participate in.