Pelican to Baker Cove, Goulding Harbor

Rather than retrace our steps toward Sitka, we opted for the road less traveled—south down the exposed west coast of Chichagof Island. This route meant reentering the Gulf of Alaska, a place we hadn’t seen since cruising to Prince William Sound back in 2014.

After waving goodbye to Pelican, we headed west down Lisianski Strait—a narrow, scenic channel by Alaskan standards (just half a mile wide in spots). As we approached the open Gulf, the swell made its presence known, crashing against the rocks flanking the entrance. It was a dramatic shift from the protected waters we’d grown used to, but the route is well-charted and easy to navigate with a little attention.

Fortunately, the forecast held: light winds, gentle 3-foot swells, and no surprises. OceanFlyer settled into a comfortable rhythm, and we enjoyed a quiet run—just two fishing boats and two humpbacks for company.

Rounding into Imperial Passage, the seas quickly flattened. The entry to Baker Cove is straightforward, but mind the shallows on the western side—best to hug the deeper center channel on approach.

Baker Cove is a hidden gem. Sedge grass meadows and small creeks line the head of the cove, prime bear habitat if you’re lucky. We anchored in 60 feet at high tide and didn’t wait long.

baker cove

A single, hefty grizzly soon emerged, contentedly grazing for nearly 10 hours straight. He barely noticed us—just sat there like a giant, furry Buddha, blissfully working his way through nature’s salad bar.

A quiet anchorage, beautiful setting, and front-row seat to a grizzly’s buffet. Not a bad way to end the day.