Shearwater to Ocean Falls
/There are plans... and then there are cruising plans.
Today's plan was straightforward: make the short run north to one of our favorite places, Ocean Falls, spend a couple of days there, and then begin our gradual journey south.
The trip itself is only about three hours, but it is made more interesting by transiting Gunboat Passage. Although well charted and not particularly tide sensitive, the route keeps you engaged as it winds through a series of narrow bends before lining up with the navigation range that leads safely through the final section.
By late morning, OceanFlyer was securely tied to the Ocean Falls dock.
One of our favorite walks here begins almost immediately. We headed into town and continued on to Link Lake to visit the massive dam that made Ocean Falls possible. For decades, the tremendous hydroelectric potential of the lake powered one of the largest pulp and paper mills on the British Columbia coast. Although the mill is long gone, the dam remains an impressive reminder of the engineering that gave birth to this remarkable community.
ocean falls today
ocean falls in the glory days
Ocean Falls, Link River leading to the dam
BitCoin Mine and Fish Farm, both now closed
gift shop is at the corner of the Ways (the red building)
the ways is still in use
looking back to the head of cousins inlet
link lake damn and power plant
the hydo dam that created and sustains ocean falls
behind the dam, link lake is the home of the ocean falls yacht club
most of the buildings in ocean falls are sad relics from their past
steps to one of the homes distryed in the landslide a long time ago
a new sign in twon helps you get you bearings
mother nature continues to reclaim Ocean Falls
this neighborhood of company houses has fallen into themselves
oceanfalls from across the bridge that crosses link river
On our walk, we passed the old courthouse just as Amber was setting out the sign for the small gift shop inside, featuring artwork created by local residents. Naturally, we wandered in for a look.
That unplanned stop changed the next several days.
As we visited with Amber, she mentioned that the community's annual Mid-Summer night’s Feast was scheduled for Wednesday. Everyone was welcome, including transient boaters. The afternoon would begin with bingo, followed by the feast, all provided free of charge with only a suggested donation for those who wished to contribute.
all are welcome
There was no way we were going to miss an event like that.
The only disappointing news was that the bakery had been so busy preparing for the pig roast that there hadn't been time to make any fresh banana bread. Such are the tradeoffs of life in a small coastal community. We decided that was simply the yin and yang of cruising the Pacific Northwest.
what would ocean falls be without a stop at the little licker for ice cream, twice
The weather, meanwhile, was making its own plans.
Rain was forecast to begin overnight and continue through the following day, accompanied by strengthening southeast winds. It sounded like the perfect excuse to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of pancakes and sausage before settling into a productive day aboard. Engine room projects, interior cleaning, catching up on blog posts, and listening to the wind whistle through the rigging filled the hours while rain swept across the harbor.
The forecast proved accurate. Winds gusted to nearly 40 knots, making OceanFlyer feel even more welcoming tied securely to the dock.
When Wednesday arrived, the community gathering began with bingo.
I honestly can't remember the last time I played, but it didn't take long to rediscover why the game has endured. Between plenty of laughs and a little beginner's luck, I somehow managed to win three games.
Bingo! Bingo!
The festivities continued with a generous buffet sponsored by the Old Bank Inn. We certainly didn't leave hungry, but the meal wasn't the highlight of the evening.
everyone pitched in to serve up a delicious feast in the rain
What we'll remember most is the warm welcome extended by the residents of Ocean Falls. In a place as remote as this, it would have been easy for visitors to remain outsiders. Instead, we spent the evening sharing stories with local residents and fellow cruisers, leaving with new friendships and another reminder that some of the most memorable experiences afloat are the ones you never planned.