Berg Bay to Wrangell: Burgers, Deadheads, and the Downpour

After a picture-perfect day exploring Berg Bay, we pointed OceanFlyer toward Wrangell. With calm seas, a helpful current, and even a few sun breaks, the three-hour cruise felt like a reward.

sunrise in berg bay

The harbormaster directed us to Heritage Harbor, just outside town. We’d been here before—two long side-tie docks for transients—but this time the fishing fleet was still in force. Luckily, we found a prime spot on T1 with 50-amp power... eventually. The first power box was dead, so we called for a harbor staff encore. They couldn’t have been nicer and got us hooked up in no time.

Town is a quick dinghy ride across Zimovia Strait. Seas were glassy, the sun still hanging on, and we tied up in the yellow loading zone at Reliance Harbor as instructed.

Unfortunately, Wrangell was in low gear. The Thirsty Beaver—our dinner target—was closed for renovations. Nic’s was also dark despite what the posted hours said. But fortune smiled at the Wolf Shack, where we devoured sweet & spicy burgers on their front porch—unexpected and excellent.

lunch at the wolf shack

Wandering through town, it seemed nearly every shop was closed until Sylvia, the ever-enthusiastic owner of Alaska Vistas, popped out of her storefront like a ray of sunshine (just as the real sun gave up). A marine biologist, captain, and seasoned fish boat hand, she gave us the inside scoop: the closures were temporary. The Beaver and Marine Bar were being remodeled during the one window when all the contractors were free, and the Nic’s crew? Off at a Grateful Dead concert. Go figure.

As rain began to fall, Karen smugly zipped up her rain gear. I, of course, had left mine behind. By the time we picked up a few groceries at City Market and returned to OceanFlyer, I was soaked and she was smugger.

Dinner was quiet, cozy, and dry—just the way we like it after a day of surprises.