Tracy Arm Cove to Ford’s Terror

Today’s cruise was all about the tides. To safely transit into Ford’s Terror, you’ve got to hit high slack precisely—there’s no winging it here. Using Wood Spit as our reference (it’s the closest reporting station), we planned to arrive in the outer bay around 5:00 p.m. and run the narrows at 5:30. With high tide at 4:49, we split the difference between the commonly accepted slack window of 15–60 minutes after high.

There’s no shortage of advice these days on timing the entrance—blogs, photos, AIS tracks. Maybe even too much info. A few nights ago, Marine Traffic showed nearly 10 boats inside. We were hoping for a quieter experience.

The ride up Endicott Arm was easy, with just a few bergy bits and stunning views of the hanging Sumdum Glacier. As we arrived at the holding spot outside Ford’s Terror, M/V Lituya was already there. We soon spotted Salty Dawg blasting through the narrows a bit too early for our taste, followed by three small fishing boats making a wild dash through the whitewater.

Lituya, on the other hand, had a calmer approach. After chatting on the radio, we agreed to follow her lead—she’s made the run multiple times. Right on schedule at 5:30, she moved in. I tracked both our course and her AIS track—they aligned perfectly.

Our transit was smooth. No current, no drama. But Ford’s Terror saves one last twist after the 90-degree dogleg—another shallow stretch that keeps you on your toes. Once through, the reward hits you: towering granite walls, cascading waterfalls, and an ever-unfolding landscape that shifts with every bend. It’s jaw-dropping.

Karen reported no less than 18.5 feet under the keel at a 14.7-foot tide. Respect the timing, follow the track, and this passage is far more awe-inspiring than terrifying. Honestly, they should’ve named it “Ford’s Narrows.”

We continued past the eastern fork to the head of the basin, anchoring in 100 feet near the northwest shore. Lituya took the waterfall side, which we gladly left open as thanks for guiding us through. We had the place to ourselves—just two boats surrounded by Alaska at its best.

The evening was calm and beautiful, with the waterfall providing both a soundtrack and a view. We raised a glass to checking off a true bucket-list destination. Ford’s Terror delivered in every way.