Montague Harbor to Nanaimo

Clear skies and winds less than 5 knots continue to keep us company as we hoist the anchor in what is a very empty early season Montague Harbour. As we were preparing for departure, Karen noticed a string of AIS targets making their way north in Trincomali channel. She recognized them as San Juan Sailing vessels, and we think this is the “yacht club” the Port of Nanaimo mentioned when telling us we would berthed be in the Inner Harbour “because of the yacht club” that would take up Mays Landing. Also on the AIS was the Slowboat flotilla. Seems like everyone is on the same schedule. We’ll adjust our plans to de-synchronize with them al!.

perfect day on the water

As we made our way from the anchorage, a Canada Customs RIB came along side to check our clearance number and ask a few questions. We had all the correct answers, so they bid us farewell and a safe journey, as we did them.

Back to the plan for today. We do not particularly like going through Dodd Narrows but it is the most direct route to Nanaimo. The narrows itself is not the problem, it is all the inexperienced boaters who congregate at slack water waiting to transit the narrows. My plan is to let the San Juan fleet run interference for us (they look like they will be there quite early) and we’ll line up behind them. Of course that may change.

As we approached Dodd Narrows we saw the congregation of vessels first on AIS and then by eye. Power boats hovering, sailing vessels sailing back and forth across the channel, all waiting for slack water. We had timed our arrival to go through the Narrows 30 minutes early with the current on our nose, but it looked like everyone else was waiting for the exact moment of slack.

One of the advantages of AIS is that you can look around the corner and see if there are any AIS targets approaching the Narrows from the north. Of interest are targets going less than 2 knots. These are often tugs with tows. Sure enough we saw, first on AIS and then later though the Narrows itself, a tug towing a large barge full of gravel.

As I was making my calculations to see exactly when we would arrive at Dodd and when the tug would arrive in the opposing direction, the tug Captain announced on the radio that he would be transiting the narrows in approximately 30 minutes and that there would be no room for passing traffic headed North.

That timing would be perfect for us and we transited the narrows right away following two slower sailboats.

As we passed the tug, we made his final announcement that he was nearing the entrance to the Narrows. That was shortly followed by: “We’re a flotilla of boats northbound, do you think we can make it?”. The tugboat Captain responded: “No”. We watched as the northbound targets on the AIS all made a 180. I find the tugboat Captains to be very professional. I always tell Karen I never worry about them; you can always work with them to arrange a safe passage.

We berthed in the Inner Harbour on H dock right under the Nanaimo Port Authority building. We usually stay out at Mays Landing, so it’s been a while since we came into the Inner Harbour. We found it was a very convenient spot to be. Best of all, it was just up the dock from Penny’s Palapa. We enjoy eating there and had great nachos with beer for Karen and a margarita for me.

oceanflyer tucked into Nanaimo

Ucluelet

West White Pine Nook

We set out from Holmes Inlet Nook with a plan to hit Friendly Dolphin Cove (at the South end of  Sulphur Passage) near high tide. This was to be a lunch stop, with a dinghy ride to Shark Creek in Millar Channel to see the waterfall at high tide.

Friendly Dolphin Cove was quite pretty, but the anchorage was deep except very close to the shore and it was hard to find a spot that didn’t need a stern tie. The wind kept swinging us too close to shore for comfort and we couldn’t shorten up our rode due to the depth. So we decided that the better part of valor was to continue on to our final destination of West Whitepine Cove.

This Cove is another recommendation from our friends on M/V Navigator, and like Holmes Inlet nook, it’s much more interesting in person than it is on the chart. As we approached, we saw a 40’ power boat anchored outside of the cove in good conditions and with pretty views. We decided that might mean it was crowded inside the Cove, but we continued on as planned.

The entry to this cove is surrounded by rocks and shoals, so attention must be paid. Once inside, it opens up to a lovely basin with views in all directions. And best of all – we were the only boat inside! This remained true for the two days we were here.

West White Pine Nook At HIGH TIDE

THE ENTRANCE At West White Pine Nook DEMANDs good planing, careful seamanship and a good tide

We had an amazing sunset on the first night. It literally was gorgeous in all quadrants, not just in the west. We saw pinkish skies and alpenglow on mountains. Lovely.

LOnG LASTING SUNSET

THE FLAMEing clouds SEEM TO GO ON FOR AN HOUR

We heard that there was good prawning outside the Cove in Herbert Inlet. A fish farm is nearby and there appeared to be quasi-permanent prawn traps deployed. We tried our best but didn’t catch more than a handful. Those prawns were nicely sized, however, and did not go to waste.

BEAUTIFUL RIDE IN THE DINGHY IN SEARCH OF PRAWNS

NOT MANY BUT NICE SIZE

YUMMY

West White Pine Nook At LOW TIDE

there’s calm and then there is mirror calm

foggy sunrise

We also explored in the dinghy, looking at the far more open and less interesting “Whitepine Cove” and some logging activity in the area. Haircuts were also on the agenda for the day.

MORNING MAGIC

We decided to spend our 3rd night outside of the Cove, as tides were favorable for the narrow exit in the late afternoon. We anchored close to where we saw the power boat on our approach to West Whitepine. It was a lovely spot as well, and quite scenic.

Overall, another winning recommendation from the M/V Navigator crew!

AMAZING SKIES SEEM TO BE THE NORM AT West White Pine Nook

THE MAGNIFICATE SKIES OF West White Pine Nook

Port Renfrew

Port Renfrew is a 5-hour ride from Dodger Channel. It is a stop of convenience. We like breaking the leg from the Bamfield area to Victoria into two days. It’s a lot less tiring overall than making it in one 11-hour day. We’ve done that and much prefer taking the stopover.

Pacific Gateway Marina is part of the Oak Bay Group (like Mill Bay, Sidney and Port Browning) and was built to service the local fleet of sport fishing boats. They have a large number of small slips for them but also offer one long guest dock for transient moorage. There is no power or water, but the fact that you’re behind a nice rock breakwater makes up for that. I think we saw at least half of the fleet fishing near the mouth of Port Renfrew as we made our approach.

pACIFIC gATEWAY maRINA CATERS TO THE SPORT FISHER

We made reservations in the Spring, so we are assured of a spot. There is not a ton of room, so you really take your chances if you just show up on a whim. While anchoring out in the bay is possible, it is subject to the fetch of the ocean.

On this trip, we made the 30-minute walk to the Renfrew Pub. There is a Bridgerman’s Bistro at the marina, but it was closed due to a death in the tight knit community. There is some elevation to manage, but you’re walking on a paved road without a lot of traffic. That’s good because there is no real shoulder to walk on. Most cars were very polite and gave us a wide berth as they passed.

It’s a very busy local eatery. We arrived at 6pm on a Friday and were told it would be a 40-minute wait. We were seated in 20 minutes, so that was nice. The food is good pub food. It’s loud, but the service was pleasant, and the food came out very quickly.

Interestingly, we passed a food truck about 300 yards before we got to the Pub. Renny’s Hwy 10 Ol’ School Grub, though their t-shirts just say Renny’s.  It was very busy with locals coming and taking food home or sitting at the picnic tables provided. As we were standing in line at the Pub, a person from Renny’s food truck strolled up and announced to all waiting that you don’t need to stand in line for hours because the food truck is just a short walk away. She also mentioned that Renny’s prices were about half. They had one table of 6 walk back with her to the food truck. Entrepreneurship in action. We’ll give Renny’s a try next time we are in Port Renfrew.

SMOKE FILLED SKIES SUNSET AT PORT RENFREW

Dodger Channel

We could have just stayed in Bamfield and departed from our anchorage in Inner Bamfield Inlet to go to our next destination, Port Renfrew. But Dodger Channel in the Deer Group puts us 45 minutes closer, avoids the long slow no-wake trip out of Bamfield Inlet, and keeps us away from all the small sport fishing boats, especially important in case of reduced visibility.

Dodger Channel is an interesting anchorage. Anchor at the SE end behind Haines Island and you are well protected from the ocean swell. The 20-foot water is well charted and there is very good holding.  There is a very nice view of Haines Island, some islets, and the ocean beyond.  You can also anchor in the NW part of the channel closer to the deep-water entrance, but it is subject to swell at higher tides as the small shoals and islets cover.

Dodger Channel looking toward Southeast

Dodger Channel looking Northwest

 In the past we have anchored here and explored the nearby islets and beaches, but today is just a drop and go. We had no company except for a couple who were camping on the beach of Haines Island. It was a very peaceful night.