The Pearse Islands

Our plan for today was to go to Pearl Pass as a positioning stop before traveling to Port McNeill tomorrow. We decided to go “the long way” out into Johnstone Strait, hoping to see whales.

Our route took us down Baronet Passage until it intersects Johnstone Strait. A quick look around Johnstone and listening to the whale watching boats – no joy. Then back north through Blackney Passage along Hanson Island, past the Plumper Islands through Weynton Passage and finally on to our new destination, the Pearse Islands.

This is historically a good area to spot humpbacks and as the name Blackfish Sound implies, Orca. We were monitoring three VHF channels, 16, 7 and 10. The latter two are used by the whale watching boats in the area and can give you a good idea as to what the activity, if any activity, you might find. Unfortunately, the report was that the Orca had gone back into Robson Bight and therefore we would not be seeing any of them today.

We had just about given up when passing the last of the Plumper Islands and rounding the corner between them and Stubbs Island I caught what I thought was a log just off our starboard forward quarter, not two boat lengths away. The log quickly resolved itself to be a fin of a humpback about to cross our bow.

Always enjoy seeing a humpback whale

Engines quickly into reverse and as we came to a dead stop the humpback passed just in front of us. Seemingly unaware of our presence. We know he knows we are here but he has no interest in us. I’m glad we were only at a slow cruise speed, as it allowed us to stop quickly. The mammal was fishing a circular pattern in the relatively shallow shelves off the Plumper Islands.

After watching a couple of shallow dives, and letting the humpback get a safe distance away, we resumed our course for the Pearse Islands.

This might be our third visit to the Pearse Islands, which are part of the Cormorant Channel Marine Park. We anchor in the center of the main channel in 20 feet of water abeam a break in the islands to the north. The current runs strongly, and your boat tugs on your anchor to the East and then to the West. I useed a generous 5 to 1 scope to help the anchor set in the rocky bottom that is covered in kelp.

our anchor spot with a view in the Pearse Islands

What that anchor spot looks like on the Navionics chart

Looking out to Cormorant Channel

I like to leave time to experience the current change to ensure the anchor holds in both directions. We did end up resetting once. When we weighed anchor, it took time to offload the kelp ball on the anchor.

A note. The channel is a favorite pass through for small local boats. Having said that, they are almost all very courteous and slow down as they pass. Either that, or we are a curiosity that requires closer inspection.

Sunset in the Pearse Islands

Lagoon Cove

We departed Boughey Bay for one of our favorite destinations, Lagoon Cove. It’s not far, just up Chatham Channel and through the Blow Hole. The timing of the Chatham Channel currents is such that we got underway very early and arrived at Lagoon Cove by 8:30am.

After getting skunked last August, we made reservations for moorage in advance. But could they take us this early?

We jumped on the radio to say that we’d anchor out for a few hours if they needed time to clear a space. Luckily for us, there was room and Dan welcomed us to the dock and helped with lines. It’s such a friendly place.

Lagoon cove docks. Overflow dock, with the new crew quaRters under construction can be seen near the small cove.

A two-night stay is in the offing. Lagoon Cove is famous for the daily happy hour potluck where they provide freshly caught prawns and fellow boaters provide the rest. We find that we often can make a dinner meal of the generous concoctions set out by our cruising dock mates. It’s also really popular, and the marina was totally full the first night we were there. Business is booming. The fuel dock was very busy and they are building marina crew accommodations on the overflow dock.

Dan laying out the ground rules for happy hour, Prawns for everyone!

World famous LAgoon Cove shed. Many a crew have left their burgee.

The shop at the other end of the shed. This was once a very active maintenance facility with the ways to haul out boats along side.

The idea of freshly caught prawns is extremely attractive. We tried here last August, and nearly lost our pot to an obstruction on the bottom. This year, surely, we’ll be luckier. The word is that the prawns are back after the commercial fishery plunder.

Sadly, three soaks in three different locations over two days resulted in a total of 5 prawns. Nice-sized, but not worth the effort. And a fish farm is now located right over one of the best prawning sites! Oh well, maybe later in the trip.

A unique offering by our hosts Dan and Kelley is that you can purchase a ten-dollar Shore Package if the docks are full, and you anchor out. We did this last year — you can enjoy happy hour at the marina as well as access to the land and the hiking trails.  When the docks are full, we find that a great deal.

We met some great people on M/V Tortoise.  She is a very well kept single-engine Grand Banks 36 out of Sidney, and new to the owners. We had fun at happy hour with Helen and Jeff!

Low tide provides opportunity to clean the bottom and service the outboard. Decomissioned ways can be seen to the left of the ramp.

On the second evening we saw Dan jump in his boat and make his way toward Chatham Channel at full speed. Apparently, there was a mayday for a sinking boat and Lagoon Cove was the closest source of assistance.  We were alerted to the situation as a helicopter flew low over the Cove and landed by the main house. While we don’t know all the details, it seems as if a group of teenagers had a serious issue and had the presence of mind to get their life jackets on and into a dinghy. The boat sank, but the kids were all fine though shaken for sure. Kudos to Dan and those on the dock who helped when the kids arrived.

We enjoyed our stay at Lagoon Cove very much and look forward to next year!

lagoon cove sunset

Boughey Bay

Today our goal is to position ourselves near Lagoon Cove so we can make slack in Chatham Channel tomorrow morning.

The forecast for Johnstone Strait has been anything but accurate. While the forecast is for light winds, the buoy reports during the day report 30 knot winds. In fact, yesterday one large Ocean Alexander returned to Blind Channel after they got beat up on the Strait and decided to turn around.

Today’s forecast is for very light winds, but we expect something other than that, and decided to go the “back way” to stay off the Strait as long as possible. We set our alarms for an early start to make our passage first through Greens Point rapids and then Whirlpool Rapids with an hour of high slack. Both of the rapids are wide and at high tide you experience swirls and eddies but no standing waves. That allows for a wide tide window to transit.

We repeatly crossed paths with these vessels servicing the fish farms

As we turned off Johnstone Strait, one boat called us to ask if we were going through Chatham Channel and if they could follow us, as it was their first time.  We told him we were off to Boughey instead. We saw the boat on the docks at Lagoon Cove the next day, so his first transit was clearly successful!

We shared Boughey Bay with one other boat and had a peaceful evening.

Boughey Bay Sunset

Same view the Next moring in Boughey Bay

Blind Channel Resort

Blind Channel never fails to delight. Karen and I often find ourselves fondly reminiscing about our numerous visits. Whenever we are in the vicinity it's practically mandatory for us to make a stop. With the second and third generation of the Richter family at the helm, the family enterprise continues to impress.

A View of Blind channel docks with the resort in the backgroud, fuel dock on the left

As is the case with so many places these days, staffing remains a significant challenge. During our recent visit, they were still short of about half of their staff, but we were informed that they were due to arrive the following week. The only noticeable impact was the closure of the outdoor lunch kitchen. The the dock staff, although relatively new, displayed great enthusiasm and politeness. They were receptive to advice on improving their communication with arriving boaters, and we appreciated their willingness to learn.

The Blind Channel docks possess a unique characteristic—they are nestled in a back eddy off the main channel. As you approach the docks, the current initially guides you in one direction, only to switch direction to the opposite flow within a boat's length of the docks. It's best to time your arrival around slack tide, but it's always prudent to inquire about the current direction when requesting your slip assignment. Remember, the Bull Kelp is the telltale sign of the direction of the current.

The dock staff will help with your lines often assisted by fellow boaters who appreciate the challenge as they too have been surprised by the unique, but manageable docking experience. It’s not difficult but be prepared and willing to back off and try again if you don’t like the picture. The third time is always a charm as you develop a feel for the conditions.

At zero Tide there is lots of room for boats with less draft

One of the main highlights at Blind Channel is the opportunity to enjoy wilderness fine dining at the Cedar Post Inn. If lingcod happens to grace the menu, I highly recommend it. Don't miss indulging in dessert, crafted by their dedicated pastry chef. I've adopted a personal rule of ordering items I don't typically prepare on the boat—it's an easy justification to savor someone else's cooking!

THe Cedar Post Inn is not to be missed

Lincod Served over mushroom risotto

Lastly, in July and August it's crucial to make reservations for both moorage and the restaurant, as Blind Channel boasts a loyal following and fills up rapidly. Secure your spot ahead of time to ensure you don't miss out.

Handfield Bay

Happy Fourth of July! What a festive week it has been, starting with Canada Day on the 1st and now July 4th. However, due to our wilderness location and the extended drought conditions, there will be no fireworks to mark the holidays.

Today, our destination is Cameleon Harbour off Nadales Channel, with the option of tucking into Handfield Bay if space is available. available. And guess what? There's plenty of room! Surprisingly, the bay is empty. It's been quite a while since we last visited Handfield Bay in 2005 when we chartered the M/V Best of Times, a 4788 Bayliner.

Cameleon Harbour lower right, Handfield Bay Center Top

Handfield Bay is a charming, secluded bay surrounded by shallow areas near the shore. Typically, you'll find about 5 or 6 boats with a shore-tie, as we're alone, we decided to drop our Ultra 45kg — 99 lbs — anchor in the center, giving us ample swinging room.

oceanflyer enjoying handfield bay

View of handfield bay Chart showing where we anchored

Once we settled into our spot, a small single-handed sailboat anchored to our northeast. From my observations, I believe there's space for another anchored boat or even 4 stern-tie vessels. So, while Handfield Bay is small, it does offer room for the careful and creative mariner.

Yesterday, boats anchored in Cameleon Bay complained about the northwest winds and the fetch. However, even if the winds pick up this afternoon, we will be sheltered from most of the gusts and all of the fetch.

In fact, we enjoyed a steady breeze of 5-10 knots, which kept the temperatures on the boat reasonably comfortable as the air outside rose to around 80F. However, the sky is hazy with smoke from forest fires to the east.

Our plan for the afternoon was to explore Cameleon Harbour by dinghy to look at the two sailboats anchored at the head. Then we intended to proceed around the corner to Thurston’s Bay Anchorage Lagoon to scout it as a potential anchorage for the future.

The ride down to the head of Cameleon Bay was pleasant, but as we turned around to head back, the winds and fetch increased a lot. It became a slow ride against the weather, and we abandoned our plan to visit Anchorage Lagoon.

While the generator was running for meal preparation, we decided to test the portable backup air conditioner in the aft berth. Within an hour, it lowered the temperature from 77 to 67 degrees. That took the edge off. When we went to bed, we opened the aft hatch and let the now cool evening air in, ensuring a restful night.