Rebecca Spit

/

Canada Day! We celebrated in style with a favorite breakfast indulgence: Bob's "Better-than-Box-Pancakes" topped with juicy blueberries.

It's amazing to think that this recipe has been a staple since our early days cruising the Pacific Northwest back in 2003. I found it in Cooks Illustrated and have never felt the need to tweak it. It continues to bring us delight every time.

Last night, the winds picked up, but our spot in the southwest corner of Drew Harbour has excellent holding so we rested well. This morning, we were greeted by picture-perfect weather, just in time for the Canadian holiday.

Rebecca Spit, Notice the unusual three-masted sailing vessel

Perfect Weather to celebrate Canada Day

I had promised Karen a trip to the beach and a leisurely walk along Rebecca Spit, and we certainly made good on that promise. As we strolled along, we couldn't help but pause and take in the breathtaking scenery. The light winds created ripples on the water, while the sky was dotted with scattered clouds that added a touch of drama. The temperature was just right, and occasionally, we caught sight of passing vessels including the ferry from Whaletown to Heriot Bay. All in all, a delightful morning.

The ferry from Whaletown approaching Rebecca spit

Nice trails along rebecca spit

Conversation among the boaters on the beach centered around the winds that had come up the previous night and the forecast is calling for even stronger gusts today. It seems that the bay's emptiness on Canada Day can be attributed to the fresh Northwest winds.

After our beach excursion, during which we indulged in some rock collecting (for Karen to paint in the future), we made our way to Heriot Bay docks, half-expecting the Inn to be closed for the holiday. To our pleasant surprise, it was open, and we seized the opportunity to enjoy a delicious lunch on the deck. If you have a chance to try to fish and chips or cod tacos, do it!

Heriot Bay MArina Docks. The government docks are in the background

Welcome sign on the docks

Picturesque Heriot Inn

a mug of dark matter and good pub food at the heriot bay inn

Sitting on the Heriot Inn’s covered porch, I faced away from the water, but Karen kept a watchful eye as the wind intensified. In no time, it reached a steady 15 knots with occasional gusts up to 30 knots. Hmm. The dinghy ride back could be interesting. The choppy waves grew steeper and more frequent as we navigated back to OceanFlyer. We both ended up drenched in salty seawater before we could adjust our course downwind and set a course straight for "home." Still, we were laughing all the way.

The wind is up

As we approached OceanFlyer, she held her ground, bridle tugging against the fresh breeze. Once back on board, Karen and I freshened ourselves and the dinghy up with a well-deserved freshwater bath before settling in for the evening. We spent the time reviewing weather forecasts and studying the currents, preparing for tomorrow's adventure to the Octopus Islands.

Rebecca spit sunset

Texada Boat Club, Sturt Bay

/

This little marina remains a favorite of ours. When going north we often do not want to stop at the overally popular Pender Habour. The Texada Boat Club transiant docks are first come first serve, but we have always found a spot. It’s one dollar [CAD] per foot. The manager comes by in the afternoon to collet the moorage fee in cash only.

transiant Docks are on the outer tee

BusY haulout opposite the TExada Boat Club

If the docks are full, the anchorage in the bay is fine but subject to swells in SE winds.

Great views out of the bay to the East, But also the source of fetch

From previous visits we can recommend a walk to the little town of Van Anda. You’ll find a very nice grocery, an interesting historial museum, the Texada Museum and Archive featuring the history of Quadra Island and a delightful lunch spot called Mary Mary Café .

Sunset over the anchorage

Ladysmith

/

When traveling north into Canada, Nanaimo is a mandatory stop for provisioning. The town has grown significantly and now offers a wide range of big box stores, grocery stores, and even a couple of chandleries.

During our layovers, we discovered a few special stores that are worth a visit. McLean's Specialty Foods is a gem, with an unmatched variety of imported cheese and other unique food items. We're particularly fond of their bacon. Additionally, we found an outstanding butcher shop called Nesvog Meats. With a simple email order and a designated pickup date, we can quickly stock up on protein for three months in just a 5-minute stop.

However, our fondness for the Port of Nanaimo Marina has diminished over the years. Their commitment to service is lacking, and the staff seems disinterested in anything nautical, resembling municipal workers.

Upon sharing our dissatisfaction with the Port of Nanaimo with friends, they suggested we try Ladysmith instead. Specifically, they recommended The Ladysmith Community Marina run by the Ladysmith Maritime Society (LMS). You can feel like a local by hailing them using the LMS moniker.

Not only is the staff at Ladysmith Community Marina courteous, professional, and friendly, but every boater we encountered on the docks was warm and welcoming. In fact, when I inquired as to the best taxi service to get to the airport, a staff member offered to give us a ride. When was the last time that happened to you? Karen and I agreed that this marina might be one of the friendliest we've had the pleasure of visiting. The marina is conveniently located just 10 minutes away from Nanaimo Airport, where we rented a car for provisioning duties in Nanaimo proper.

As a bonus, we stumbled upon a remarkable restaurant serving Spanish tapas cuisine. We received a recommendation from a fellow boater while doing laundry in Sidney. It seems the laundry network is an invaluable resource in boating.

If you want to feel Like a local, take a photo of the specials before the hostess recemmends you do so

Maya Norte serves memorable food and should be a top priority on your next visit to Ladysmith. You can find more information about them at https://mayanorte.com/.

Corn, Chorizo and Chedder Fritters are highly recommended

However, despite our happiness with Ladysmith Community Marina, there is a dark cloud hanging over it. We learned that the town is demanding that the Ladysmith Maritime Society, a non-profit corporation, vacate and remove all structures, including docks, buildings, and pilings by the end of 2023. This is despite LMS having a contract in place until 2029. In our opinion, LMS has done a magnificent job managing the docks for 37 years. We urge you to follow this story and offer help to prevent this overreach by the Town of Ladysmith and the Stz'uminus First Nation's Coast Salish Development Corporation.

Sunrise at the LAdysmith Docks

Ketchikan to Kasaan

/

After yesterday’s gale that blew through Ketchikan, this morning is calm and clearing for our departure.

We had sympathy for the Celebrity Infinity whose docking yesterday in the gale was made famous on YouTube. The current as we left Thomas Basin lived up to its reputation. Although we had a close encounter with the pilings as we made our way into Tongass Narrows, we did not suffer the fate of the Infinity that is now sporting a large scrape on her boarding side. I wonder if the Captain had the mishap painted over while the passengers were enjoying the lumberjack “competition” in town.

While there were a few cruising boats leaving Ketchikan as we departed, including the smile-inducing Disney Wonder, we soon parted ways as we crossed Clarence Strait to make our course to Kasaan. Kasaan is one of two Haida Villages in Alaska (the other is Hydaburg).  Kasaan is home to the only standing Haida longhouse in the United States, the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House. It is in the last stages of renovation with a planned re-dedication in September, 2016. Historically, the docks at Kasaan were best described as “awash”. That is now not the case, with the open harbor now enjoying beautiful new docks worthy of a much larger city.

A sure sign your have arrived in Kasaan

Not all signage is traditonal

The shore comes up quick here and with the 20 foots tides, and a minus 5 foot low, we chose to tie on the outside. The inside of the docks would be fine in high water, but our morning departure would be delayed waiting for enough water to get between the docks and the shore. Out on the west end, we never saw less than 27 feet on a minus 5 foot tide.

Mind the tides

We saw only one other boat on the docks, a local couple that was about to head out for some time on the water. They pointed us in the direction of the long house, and asked “Are you carrying?”  While Karen was slow to catch on, I immediately understood that they were strongly suggesting we carry some sort of bear protection!

Follow the signs to the long house

It’s a 1.75 mile walk to the long house. About 1/3 of the journey is on local roads and the remainder on one of the nicest forest paths I have ever seen. Karen commented that she thought you could push a wheel chair along the tree-lined path it so flat, wide, smooth and free of obstacles.

Great path on the way to the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House.

At the transition from the road to the path is the Totem Trail Café. Set up to serve the mini-adventure cruise boats that visit the area, it looks as if it could seat 100 people. Open from 7am until 3:30pm Tuesday through Saturday, they have a full menu and are very friendly. We stopped briefly on our way back and I can vouch that their smoothies are delicious.

We were not expecting to see such a modern facility as the Totem Trail Café.

Inside the Totem Trail Café.

The work on the long house was almost complete. There are some amazing restored totems inside the longhouse.

Inside the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House

Surrounding the compound are a wide range of totems dating from the 1930’s to more contemporary installations. It represents one of the best selections of intact and restored totems you will find in Southeast Alaska.

 A very traditional styled totem

A not so traditional totem. Have the guides tell you why this totem is topped with this figure.

Anybody else see Bozo the Clown in this totem.

There is a view to the beach, and a short trail that allows you access to walk along the shore. It’s easy to imagine the Haida landing their canoes!

Guided tours are available by contacting O.V.K. at 907-542-2230. 

We had a very quiet night. The weather was calm, and we were they only transient boat on the docks, with just a few local skiffs and some eagles for company. The views down the channel were lovely, with the only traffic being the Inter-Island ferry on its way to Hollis.

OceanFlyer on the new docks at Kasaan.

The name Kasaan come from the Tlingit word meaning “pretty town”. We definitely agree.

Kwatsi Bay to Boughey Bay

/

Today is a four hour run to position ourselves for our six hour trip down Johnstone Straight. Our noon departure was dictated by trying to go through Chatham Channel near slack tide. Chatham Channel has good depth, and is reasonably wide except for the southeast end where there are two range makers to keep you in the channel.

OceanFlyer on dock at Kwatsi Bay

happy hour dock on the left

our host's home

our local sentry

It has been a while since we transited Chatham Channel, and our passage today reminded us that is it no big deal. Currents can run to five knots, but in a boat such as a 49 Grand Banks, passing with a 2-3 knot current is no problem.

As we were nearing the last quarter of the channel we saw traffic going our same way. Leading the procession was a very small “yard tug” pulling a large barge. It looked as if they were repositioning a logging camp. We slowed a couple of knots so as to not run too close to the other powerboat following the barge.

GYPSY traveler

Our late departure also meant that the morning fog had burned off and we were able to enjoy the first day of sunshine in three days. Karen and I opened up the flybridge and ran the boat from there. We did need light jackets as the wind picked up to 15 knots on our nose.

fog is our traveling companion THIS year

We arrived at Boughey Bay at our planned four hour mark only to find a  boat anchored in “our spot”. So we motored around the anchorage checking depths and found a suitable location three hundred feet in front of them. Oh well, there goes their view. The wind was still at 15 knots from the northwest, but even though the bay was open to the northwest, swells never formed.

Chicken and corn tonight for dinner; some homemade brownies for dessert and then early to bed is the plan. Our wakeup call is for 5:00am.