Ketchikan to Meyers Chuck

We slipped lines in Ketchikan under steady rain—no surprise there—and caught a favorable current northbound toward Meyers Chuck. After years away, we were eager to return to this charming hamlet, known for its friendly dock, meandering trail to the beach, and of course, Cassie’s legendary cinnamon buns.

cruiseship fills ward cove as we leave ketchikan

Clarence Strait gave us a roly-poly ride with following seas and wind on our stern. OceanFlyer rolled from side to side in that slow, rhythmic sway that makes lunch prep a two-handed affair.

We’d been checking Marine Traffic for dock space, and until this morning, it looked packed. But with a slight weather break, many boats had cleared out by the time we arrived. Only two locals remained, so we slipped onto the outer float with a front-row seat to the Strait and room for others to join.

lots of room for oceanflyer at meyer’s chuck

Despite the lingering drizzle, we headed ashore for a walk to “The Beach.” The trail begins just past the homes and leads to a small, rocky beach best visited at low tide—naturally, we arrived near high. Still, it was a welcome leg-stretch, and Karen returned with a few treasures tucked under her arm.

going to “the Beach”

The path to the beach takes you past homes and through the forrest

the beach at low tide looking out to clarence strait

driftwood detail

the gallery which was a favorite for local artisans’ creations is now closed

never seen a stern thruster on a outboard before

Back at the dock, two more cruisers pulled in—just enough to help us meet Cassie’s minimum bun order. Cinnamon bun mission: accomplished.

As night fell, the dock was still quiet, a rare treat. We fell asleep with the scent of rain in the air and the promise of warm cinnamon buns in the morning.

Ketchikan Lay Day 3: Rain, Routines and a Farewell Feast

The forecast nailed it—steady rain all day. So, we stuck to the plan: stayed aboard, chipped away at boat projects, caught up on real-world work, and even knocked out a load of laundry and some route planning.

With this being our last night in Ketchikan, we decided to go out in style—Alaskan style. Dinner was at The Bush Pilot’s Lounge, perched above Tongass Narrows. It’s one of Ketchikan’s finer dining spots (relatively speaking)—no white tablecloths, but warm service and a menu worth the splurge. Desert was their twist on classic Tiramisu. They soak the lady fingers in the offical drink of Alaska, the Dark Fart, which is a shot made with equal parts Kahlua, Bailey’s Cream and Whiskey. Overall everying was delicious, a bit spendy, and a perfect way to toast our time in town.

Bush Pilot’s Lounge and dining room span the length of the building with a view of the seaplane dock

FlatulEnce Du Carnard Tiramisu

Next stop: Meyer’s Chuck.

Ketchikan Lay Day 2

Today is the big day. We are going to the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. We’ve “heard” the crowd roar when we’ve been here before but have never seen the show. We know it’s going to be kitschy, but fun.

today we play tourist

To get ourselves in the right frame of mind, we hit some of the other tourist highlights. We walked the infamous Creek Street. The buildings built on pilings along the salmon creek are now full of small souvenir shops with only an echo of the brothels of its heyday.

creek street is touristy, historic and charming. Visit after the cruise boats depart to enjoy the latter two.

We took in some of the other shops in town in the vain hope of discovering something we could not live without.

We would be remiss if we did not mention the Three Bears grocery store. You need a car because it is south of town near the native village of Saxman. It is large, has a great selection of items, the produce is the best in town and it sits on a most magnificent plot of land overlooking Tongass Narrows. If you’re coming up from the south, look for it on your starboard side before you get to the Coast Guard station. Co-located is an Ace Hardware and a liquor store.

the three bears, our new avorite grocery in Ketchikan

The Lumberjack show was a hoot. We were happy it wasn’t raining, as I can’t imagine how hard that would be for the 4 jacks and the female emcee. These guys were really talented and two we ranked 1st and 2nd in the world rankings. They performed impressive stunts in a U.S. vs. Canada “competition”, and the cruise-ship crowd had a great time, as did we.

it was a fierce competition between the U.S. and canada Teams

the pole climb is an impressive display of these lumberjack’s talents

how these two can stay on the log as long as they did was impressive

Dinner was at a place Karen found called the 108 Taphouse and Burger Bar. Part of the Cape Fox Native Corporation since 2022, this burger and beer pub is small and has a loyal following with the locals. Reservations are a must for dinner. We saw lots of people – mostly locals – being turned away as both the tables and bar seats were filled. It’s an open kitchen, so it was fun to watch the chefs as they made burgers and other bar goodies.

Ketchikan Lay Day #1: Slowing Down in Cruise Ship Central

We’ve made it to Ketchikan—and yes, we’re actually happy to be here. While it's true this place is cruise ship central and packed with trinket shops, after pushing hard to reach Alaska, a lay day feels well-earned.

We tied up at Bar Harbor South, which couldn’t be more convenient—Alaska Car Rentals is literally across the street. Since most shops open late, we kicked off the morning with a drive out to Ward Cove, the newest (and farthest) cruise terminal. It's not exactly scenic—more scrapyard than postcard—but watching a massive cruise ship maneuver in was oddly fascinating. After a coffee stop at Green Bean, we figured out the maze to get dockside for a closer look.

Ward Cove, a humble place for additional cruise ships to visit ketchikan

Back in town, we hit the Tongass Trading Company. T-shirts and tourist gear dominate the first floor, but head upstairs and you’ll find a solid selection of outdoor apparel, including premium brands like Filson.

We wandered the Arctic Spirit Gallery for a bit of native art, then grabbed lunch at Timber and Tide. Karen gave the blackened prawn tacos with mango salsa a glowing review.

A provisioning run at “Alaskan & Proud” (locals just call it the A&P) rounded out the day. With a southeast storm inbound—and a good excuse to let Karen catch up on some work—we extended our stay through Thursday.

Dinner? A hit. The New York Café served up a standout salad with gorgonzola, pears, and walnuts. Highly recommend. Bob said the tasty clam couder featured potateos above all else.

Bob had the clam chouder along with the salad

Ketchikan may not be quiet, but it’s a welcome pit stop before we head deeper into the wild.

Bullhead Cove to Ketchikan: Fuel, Fajitas & a Fiery Berth

After a flat calm night at Bullhead Cove, our 3.5-hour run to Ketchikan started off easy—fair currents and a smooth ride. That changed the moment we entered Tongass Narrows. The wind kicked up out of the northwest at 20–30 knots, pushing a short, steep chop right on our nose. Sloppy, whitecapped, and uncomfortable.

A rare blue sky day

First stop: the Petro Marine South fuel dock, just past the Coast Guard station. Luck was on our side—no one on the dock, despite the breeze. The dockhand was spot-on with the lines, and we took on 562 gallons while OceanFlyer bucked and rolled in the wind.

when all you can see is cruiseships, you know you’re in ketchikan

Getting into our assigned slip at Bar Harbor South was a whole new sport. Strong crosswinds and current tried to peel us off the dock, and a nearby fish boat had tied their skiff sideways across the head of our slip, leaving us precious little room to maneuver. Now we know why the harbormaster insisted on “bow in.” A heads-up about the skiff would’ve been appreciated.

a throuple in your slip makes for a challanging docking in the wind

The silver lining? Shore power and fresh water right at the slip—hard to come by when hot-berthing in busy Ketchikan.

With our rental car starting tomorrow, we hoofed it to the Oceanview Restaurant—one of the few places open on a Monday. It’s a quirky Mexican/Italian combo, and while past visits were forgettable, tonight’s meal was anything but. The chicken and beef fajitas were sizzling perfection, and Karen’s Shrimp Molcajete won serious points. We’d go back—but stick to the fajitas and Molcajete side of the menu.

Back at the dock, the commercial fleet was bustling—gearing up for the shrimp opener on May 15.