Lowe Inlet to Hunt Inlet: Chasing a Weather Window

Today was all about positioning for a smooth Dixon Entrance crossing. We left Lowe Inlet under a steady drizzle after a night of relentless rain—Alaska is near, after all.

With a helpful push from current and wind at our back, conditions were good enough to skip our planned stop at Kelp Passage and press on to Hunt Inlet. That move sets us up nicely for Brundige Inlet tomorrow—our final Canadian anchorage and a prime jump-off for crossing Dixon Entrance in a couple of days.

Hunt Inlet was a surprise. From the chart, you'd expect wilderness—but it’s lined with a scattered mix of homes, docks, and a couple of aging commercial buildings, including what looks like a lumber warehouse and a marine ways.

looking back to the entrance into Hunt Inlet

We slipped through the narrow, well-marked channel into the inner anchorage and set the hook in 40 feet with excellent holding. Look south, and it’s pure solitude. Look north, and there’s a quirky waterfront community.

Deep inside hunt inlet

We had the anchorage all to ourselves for the night—just the way we like it.

Layday in Lowe Inlet

Running ahead of schedule and staring down a soggy forecast, we opted to linger another night in Lowe Inlet. A rain-soaked layday sounded just right—and the weather delivered.

With steady downpours outside, we shifted gears to inside projects and boat chores. Not glamorous, but satisfying in their own way.

That’s all there is to say

The day’s main entertainment? Watching two 66-foot cruisers arrive in a torrential downpour. Their crews, valiantly standing watch in full foulies, endured the classic anchoring ballet—circling, repositioning, and finally setting hook. A reminder: never skimp on good rain gear in the PNW.

We also started keeping a close eye on Dixon Entrance, the last open-water hurdle before re-entering Alaska. Early signs point to a crossing window on Sunday—Mother’s Day. That gives us two days to stage north and be ready.

Khutze Inlet to Lowe Inlet

What a difference a day makes! Sunshine and a rising tide gave us the perfect window to explore Khutze’s twin river branches by dinghy. With Butedale tides in mind, we launched at 9:00 a.m. ahead of a 10:27 high (+14.5 ft) and were back by 11:00—never seeing less than three feet under the keel in the south branch, or two feet in the north.

the south branch runs along the mountains edge

The south side was particularly enchanting, a winding maze through salt marsh and meadows, where the only sound was the drip of light rain and the occasional bird call. Twice we dropped the hook, shut off the engine, and just drifted in the silence. No bears today, though our neighbor aboard Surfbird, who’s been anchored here for weeks, swears they’ve been active recently.

anchoren in the south branch looking for bear

looking back to the anchorage from the north branch

as far as we could go in the north branch

anchored just short of the shallow rapids

the views along the river’s edge ar always a delight

one last look at the falls at Khutze Inlet. Oceanflyer give a sense of the scale of this majestic landmark.

With weather turning grayer, we wrapped up our 5.8-mile dinghy tour and pointed the bow north. Conditions were ideal, and the current gave us a boost up the early stretch of Grenville Channel, so we carried on to Lowe Inlet.

We arrived to an empty anchorage and had our pick of the bay. Verney Falls was putting on a good show—not for height, but for volume. The churning foam stretched well into the inlet, a frothy white ribbon against the dark green water.

verney falls is feed by a large lake

we like anchoring just to one side of the falls outflow

should be good place to see bears, but not today

Bottleneck Inlet to Khutze Inlet

We were the last to pull anchor at Bottleneck—our neighbors clearly had more ambition than we did. With only a short hop to Khutze Inlet ahead, we opted for a slow start and a second cup of coffee.

The sky was gray and drizzly, but the ride was smooth as we passed through Heikish Narrows and cruised up Graham Reach. Only one other pleasure boat crossed our path.

Khutze remains one of our all-time favorites—a dramatic bowl of snow-dusted peaks, deep water, and twin rivers that spill into the head of the inlet. On past visits, we’ve often shared the space with boutique expedition ships, especially anchored near the thunderous waterfall in the southeast corner. I’d marked their preferred spot years ago—and today it was empty.

We dropped anchor in 100 feet, found good mud, and settled in with just one other boat in the bay. Clouds hung low, but the view was still spectacular. The waterfall echoed across the anchorage like distant surf—steady, peaceful, and ever-present.

Khutze Inlet waterfall is feed froum mountain snow fields. Pictures never do it justice

The weather lifted slightly as the day went on, but the bears stayed out of sight. Tomorrow morning’s forecast calls for sunshine, and we’ll take the dinghy up the river branches. With any luck, the bears will make an appearance then.

The head of Khitze Inlet

Shearwater to Bottleneck Inlet

We cast off as the last cruising boat to leave Shearwater this morning, updating our float plan to take the shorter—though slightly more exposed—route: skirting Ivory Island via Millbrook Sound and cruising up Finlayson Channel to Bottleneck Inlet. The weather looked cooperative, and this scenic path is always worth the gamble when conditions are good.

Aside from the three boats that left ahead of us, we didn’t spot a single cruiser all day. Light winds, smooth seas, and helpful currents made for an easy run, though the skies traded sunshine for a thick blanket of gray—our first fully overcast day in a while.

We slipped into Bottleneck Inlet on a +4 tide with 10 feet showing under the keel over the bar. Surprisingly, only one boat was anchored when we arrived, joined by just one more later in the day. Even here, where boats often dot the length of the inlet, it’s clear that early-season solitude still reigns.

Bottleneck Inlet offer convenient protection just off of Finlayson Channel