Bottleneck Inlet to Khutze Inlet

We were the last to pull anchor at Bottleneck—our neighbors clearly had more ambition than we did. With only a short hop to Khutze Inlet ahead, we opted for a slow start and a second cup of coffee.

The sky was gray and drizzly, but the ride was smooth as we passed through Heikish Narrows and cruised up Graham Reach. Only one other pleasure boat crossed our path.

Khutze remains one of our all-time favorites—a dramatic bowl of snow-dusted peaks, deep water, and twin rivers that spill into the head of the inlet. On past visits, we’ve often shared the space with boutique expedition ships, especially anchored near the thunderous waterfall in the southeast corner. I’d marked their preferred spot years ago—and today it was empty.

We dropped anchor in 100 feet, found good mud, and settled in with just one other boat in the bay. Clouds hung low, but the view was still spectacular. The waterfall echoed across the anchorage like distant surf—steady, peaceful, and ever-present.

Khutze Inlet waterfall is feed froum mountain snow fields. Pictures never do it justice

The weather lifted slightly as the day went on, but the bears stayed out of sight. Tomorrow morning’s forecast calls for sunshine, and we’ll take the dinghy up the river branches. With any luck, the bears will make an appearance then.

The head of Khitze Inlet

Shearwater to Bottleneck Inlet

We cast off as the last cruising boat to leave Shearwater this morning, updating our float plan to take the shorter—though slightly more exposed—route: skirting Ivory Island via Millbrook Sound and cruising up Finlayson Channel to Bottleneck Inlet. The weather looked cooperative, and this scenic path is always worth the gamble when conditions are good.

Aside from the three boats that left ahead of us, we didn’t spot a single cruiser all day. Light winds, smooth seas, and helpful currents made for an easy run, though the skies traded sunshine for a thick blanket of gray—our first fully overcast day in a while.

We slipped into Bottleneck Inlet on a +4 tide with 10 feet showing under the keel over the bar. Surprisingly, only one boat was anchored when we arrived, joined by just one more later in the day. Even here, where boats often dot the length of the inlet, it’s clear that early-season solitude still reigns.

Bottleneck Inlet offer convenient protection just off of Finlayson Channel

Fancy Cove to Shearwater

Just a short hop today brought us to Shearwater, where we were the first to arrive and had the docks to ourselves until afternoon. As always, we were welcomed by Jeff and Molly—now in their fifth season as harbourmasters and still the best part of any stop here.

The docks are missing shore power due to storm damage over the winter, when the “T-Dock” broke free. Jeff tells us power should be restored tomorrow. Fingers crossed that “tomorrow” doesn’t stretch too far into the future.

The store was open, though the shelves were mostly bare, with the next barge delivery a week away. Fortunately, the laundromat was fully operational, and we jumped at the chance to run a few loads ashore.

We couldn’t resist a stop at the legendary Hodge Podge general store—home of my favorite pepperoni cheese sticks—and warmed up with hot drinks on a chilly afternoon. A stroll to the ferry dock helped stretch our legs before chatting with some first-time cruisers heading for Alaska. Their enthusiasm reminded us that the magic of the Inside Passage never fades, even on a repeat voyage.

never miss an opportunity to stop at the hodge podge

sheatwater view from behind the fuel dock float

We’d planned to celebrate Karen’s birthday at the Fisherman’s Bar & Grill, but despite earlier assurances, the doors stayed shut. Plan B? Burgers aboard and a quiet night in port. Not quite the dinner we imagined—but full of the kind of memories we’ll laugh about later.

Pruth Bay to Fancy Cove

Today we set our course for Shearwater, but with a stopover at one of our favorite hideaways—Fancy Cove. Just 10 km from Shearwater, it’s the perfect spot to stage our arrival: close enough for a short morning hop, yet far enough to avoid the early marina shuffle. While timing isn’t as critical this early in the season, we’re always happy for an excuse to revisit this cozy anchorage. The bottom is mud and slit so a gentle touch is needed when setting the anchor.

It is also a reliable source for spotting our favorite black bear. He made his apperence in the West Cove arounnd high tide. Too dark for photos, but we’re happy to see him looking well after a long winter.

Looking out from fancy cove

The head of Fancy Cove. The source of the mud and silt for the sticky bottom.

THe west cove and our reliable bear beach

The day served up a sampler of spring weather—sun, clouds, showers, and back to sun again. Winds were light, the seas gentle, and the radar blissfully quiet. We didn’t see a single vessel leaving Pruth and passed just one lone sailboat en route. With luck, we’ll keep riding this quiet “in-between phase,” tucked neatly between waves of eager cruisers making their way to Alaska.

anchored inside the little islet gives you a northest view toward cooper inlet

FAncy cove sunset

Pruth Bay Lay Day

After two long travel days, today was blissfully uneventful—a well-earned lay day. We eased into the morning at a leisurely pace, then turned to boat chores in the afternoon. Sea strainers got a thorough cleaning, and a Racor filter was swapped out—just enough maintenance to feel productive.

Rain set the mood for most of the day, save for a stunning sunrise and an equally striking sunset. At 7 a.m., the NatGeo expedition ship arrived, and for the next few hours, we watched from the dry comfort of our cabin as tenders ferried 90 rain-soaked guests back and forth to the Hakai Institute. Their enthusiasm was admirable, but we were grateful our exploring was done yesterday—under sunny skies and in solitude.

a very dramatic sunrise in pruth bay

Red sky at morning….yes the rain came!

the viewed changed in pruth bay as the NatGEo set her anchor.

At 6 p.m., the NatGeo ship pulled anchor and glided off toward its next destination. Not long after, a turbo Beaver touched down in the bay and dropped off a lone passenger at the dock. As if on cue, the skies cleared and we were treated to a peaceful, rain-free evening.