Squirrel Cove to Cordero Islands: Rapids, Tugs & Solitude

We woke to a misty morning in Squirrel Cove, but by the time we weighed anchor, the rain had cleared—perfect timing for a run through the big three: Yuculta, Gillard, and Dent Rapids.

karen giving thechain rode a good bath before stowing in the locker

The sun made a welcome return, lighting up the stunning scenery as we cruised north. Not a pleasure craft in sight—just us, the coastline, and a few hardworking boats. A tug pushing a barge slid past us at Dent Narrows, and another hauled a sprawling log tow as we neared the anchorage. It’s always a show out here.

The wind picked up in the afternoon, but conditions stayed comfortable. We debated pushing through the next set of rapids, but the timing wasn’t right. So instead, we tucked in just outside Greene Point Rapids—an absolutely lovely anchorage. Gusts are topping 20 knots, but OceanFlyer is riding steady, and the late-day sunshine is a welcome contrast to yesterday’s drizzle.

cordero island sunset

Squirrel Cove Lay Day

Thanks to yesterday’s push in good weather, we earned ourselves a proper lay day in Squirrel Cove—and just in time for a full day of forecasted rain. Perfect.

perfect way to start a layday

With OceanFlyer swinging gently at anchor, we leaned into a quiet day of onboard comforts: a bit of meal prep, a custom tool project in the works, and a generous helping of guilt-free loafing. Tomorrow we take on the rapids—but today, it’s all about recharging in one of Desolation Sound’s coziest anchorages.

Squirrel Cove Lay Day

We ran the distance yesterday while the weather held, making it all the way to Squirrel Cove—so today, we earned a lay day.

With steady rain tapping the deck, there’s no better excuse to stay put and enjoy life on the hook. We stayed cozy aboard OceanFlyer, dedicating the day to gourmet meal prep, sketching out a custom tool design for the boat, and embracing the fine art of loafing. Sometimes, recharging is the most productive thing you can do—especially with a full day of rapid-running on the horizon tomorrow.

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Nanaimo to Squirrel Cove: A Crossing Worth the Push

After two blustery days pinned down in Nanaimo, we were thrilled to find the Strait of Georgia glassy and kind. With less than 10 knots on the nose and under a foot of chop, we seized the window.

Dodging the Queen of Cowichan on our way out, we slipped into the Strait and aimed straight across—no Whiskey Gulf activity today.

The plan was to stop at the Texada Boat Club in Sturt Bay—quiet, quirky, and a great alternative to always-busy Pender. No power or water, but it’s a charming, well-kept stop with a short walk to town and a dock that keeps getting better, thanks to transient boaters’ support.

But as the miles slid by effortlessly, we decided to stretch the day and push on to Squirrel Cove. Not a soul in sight until the top of Texada, where we spotted three Orca gliding the shoreline—a rare and welcome sight after a few lean years.

By the time we dropped anchor in Squirrel Cove, we had the place nearly to ourselves. Just one sailboat joined us later, a rare treat in a spot that’s usually a floating village by summer. Early-season cruising has its perks—peace, space, and a little magic.

a rare event. an almost empty squirrel Cove.

Layday in Nanaimo

Before pushing north toward Alaska, today was all about chores and a little creative packing. First up: rinse the salt off the boat, do laundry, and top off the freshwater tanks. With that squared away, we made a supply run for tomorrow’s dinner — a rotisserie chicken and a side — but the main event was our pickup at Nesvog Meats.

With the freezers already stuffed to the gills, finding room for the new bounty was like playing a game of galley Tetris. I converted a drawer of our Vitrifrigo fridge into extra freezer space. Miraculously, it all fit — but we’re officially maxed out. Time to move on!

lunch was, of course at Penny’s palapa

Both the pulled pork nachos , show above, and the halabut tacos are highy recommended

after lunch, a stroll on the harbour promanade and a mini-concert

The day wrapped with another spectacular sunset over Nanaimo Harbour. Tomorrow’s forecast promises lighter winds and calmer seas — perfect timing to get back underway.

another beautiful sunst in Nanaimo Harbour