Nanaimo to Squirrel Cove: A Crossing Worth the Push

After two blustery days pinned down in Nanaimo, we were thrilled to find the Strait of Georgia glassy and kind. With less than 10 knots on the nose and under a foot of chop, we seized the window.

Dodging the Queen of Cowichan on our way out, we slipped into the Strait and aimed straight across—no Whiskey Gulf activity today.

The plan was to stop at the Texada Boat Club in Sturt Bay—quiet, quirky, and a great alternative to always-busy Pender. No power or water, but it’s a charming, well-kept stop with a short walk to town and a dock that keeps getting better, thanks to transient boaters’ support.

But as the miles slid by effortlessly, we decided to stretch the day and push on to Squirrel Cove. Not a soul in sight until the top of Texada, where we spotted three Orca gliding the shoreline—a rare and welcome sight after a few lean years.

By the time we dropped anchor in Squirrel Cove, we had the place nearly to ourselves. Just one sailboat joined us later, a rare treat in a spot that’s usually a floating village by summer. Early-season cruising has its perks—peace, space, and a little magic.

a rare event. an almost empty squirrel Cove.

Layday in Nanaimo

Before pushing north toward Alaska, today was all about chores and a little creative packing. First up: rinse the salt off the boat, do laundry, and top off the freshwater tanks. With that squared away, we made a supply run for tomorrow’s dinner — a rotisserie chicken and a side — but the main event was our pickup at Nesvog Meats.

With the freezers already stuffed to the gills, finding room for the new bounty was like playing a game of galley Tetris. I converted a drawer of our Vitrifrigo fridge into extra freezer space. Miraculously, it all fit — but we’re officially maxed out. Time to move on!

lunch was, of course at Penny’s palapa

Both the pulled pork nachos , show above, and the halabut tacos are highy recommended

after lunch, a stroll on the harbour promanade and a mini-concert

The day wrapped with another spectacular sunset over Nanaimo Harbour. Tomorrow’s forecast promises lighter winds and calmer seas — perfect timing to get back underway.

another beautiful sunst in Nanaimo Harbour

Princess Cove to Nanaimo: A Salty Sprint North

We slipped lines early this morning, aiming to catch Dodd Narrows just before the 9 a.m. slack. The run north was a dream—calm waters, clear skies, and barely another pleasure boat in sight.

As we neared the Narrows, a small sailboat and a catamaran hovered nervously, waiting for a southbound tug and barge to barrel through with the last push of current on their stern. Once they passed, the parade north began. With 2 knots of current on the nose, the sailboats struggled for speed, but OceanFlyer powered through with ease.

Exiting Dodd, the conditions shifted fast. The breeze kicked up, the seas grew, and our once-pristine decks got a proper saltwater baptism. Approaching Nanaimo, we were welcomed by the whoosh of a Harbour Air floatplane landing just off our starboard side—a reminder that Nanaimo is always bustling.

We tucked into a slip on the inside of S Dock at the W.E. Mills outer moorage. Strong winds tried to shove us off, but with a few extra lines and some teamwork, OceanFlyer was snug and secure with a front-row seat to all the harbor action.

Nanaimo isn’t a destination for lounging—it’s a vital provisioning stop before crossing the Strait of Georgia. Over the years, we’ve curated a list of reliable suppliers:

• MacLean’s Specialty Foods: A must-visit for specialty cheeses, English bacon, and irresistible sweets. Even with new owners and ongoing renovations (including a future coffee bar), the soul of the place is the same.

• Nesvog Meats: An outstanding butcher. We pre-order via email, pick it up frozen and perfectly packed—saving us hours of chasing down supplies and repackaging on board.

• Harbour Chandlery: Just a short walk away and a treasure trove of boating and fishing gear. Serious eye candy for anyone who loves gear.

Lunch was dockside at Penny’s Palapa—an old favorite for good reason. After light provisioning at Thrifty Foods, we wrapped up the day with a relaxed dinner at La Stella.

port of Nanaimo and the city at sunset

Alaska beckons, but first, a good night’s sleep in Nanaimo's lively harbor.

Port Browning to Princess Cove: Calm Waters and Hidden Gems

With a big, stubborn high pressure parked overhead, we woke to another morning of flat seas and light winds—perfect conditions to move on. But first, a mandatory fuel stop: breakfast at the Copper Otter. A few years back, new owners took the helm, and if anything, the food and warm hospitality have only gotten better.

the walk up to the driftwood shopping center is all on the roads

The copper otter; Yummy!

breakfast sandwich at the copper otter

Back aboard OceanFlyer, we motored out into quiet waters. Pleasure boats were few and far between this early in the season, but the commercial traffic was in full swing. At the intersection of Active Pass and Navy Channel, we found ourselves threading between four BC Ferries—the Coastal Celebration, Queen of New Westminster, Queen of Cumberland, and Salish Raven—plus a SeaSpan freighter for good measure. We held course and speed, weaving cleanly through the ferry ballet without a hitch.

the park sign looks refreshed and inviting

Another visit to Princess Cove on Wallace Island has long been on our list, but it’s usually packed in season. Today? Just one lonely sailboat tucked inside—our lucky break. We dropped anchor and enjoyed a leisurely afternoon walk to Conover Cove, about 35 minutes at Bob’s signature "trudge" pace. The trail is well maintained, with only a few muddy patches to dance around. Along the way, we paid homage to the island’s quirky landmarks: the rusted-out truck and the tiny cabin overflowing with boaters’ handmade signs.

the trails on wallace island are very nice

every visitor must stop and check out the car

the cabin is the other must stop on your walk between conover cove and princess cove

a small sample of the boat signs that cover every inch of the cabin, both inside and out

early season in conover cove

oceanflyer and one sailboat in princess cove

its setting up for a nice sunset; where’s the drone?

The day closed with a jaw-dropping sunset—calm waters, brilliant colors, and the feeling that adventure is just beginning.

sunset in princess cove

Bellingham to Port Browning: Alaska, Here We Come!

After six months of upgrades and elbow grease aboard OceanFlyer, we’re finally pointing the bow north—Alaska bound! We’ve got five months of cruising ahead and couldn’t be more excited. It’s our fourth run to Southeast Alaska, but the first in nine years. Time to rediscover some old favorites and chart a few new ones.

Calm Seas, And that’s just fine with us

Today marked our crossing into Canada, making us the first among our cruising circle to test the waters after recent political frostiness between U.S. and Canadian leadership. Would border agents be in a mood? Not at all. Canadian Customs was smooth, professional, and just as courteous as ever—zero drama.

Our first stop? Port Browning—a perennial favorite for clearing in and winding down. There’s usually plenty of room to anchor, and it’s a quick dinghy hop to shore and the welcoming Port Browning Pub. Stretch your legs another 20 minutes and you'll hit a solid grocery store, a liquor shop, a charming bakery, and the Copper Otter—a restaurant well worth the walk.

karen walks under the leaning tree at The Pub

Bob settles in for some good pub food

we celebrate the start of our trip with an over-the-top dessert

well stocked grocery store at port browning

Prefer docks over swinging on the hook? Good news: the marina’s been steadily improving under the Oak Bay Group’s stewardship, and we now recommend it without hesitation.

Great view of the Port Browing Resort and docks

there is always room to anchor at port browning

Next stop: northward and onward. The Inside Passage awaits.