The Octopus Islands

At anchor in the Octopus Islands 

Last year, I had dreamed of reaching the Octopus Islands, because their reputation was superb and I wanted to see if reality lived up to the hype. It does….in spades. We had a peaceful night at anchor, and awoke to watch the tide recede. This was particularly interesting, because while we knew that these islands were dotted with rocks, when the tide went out, you could see them in living color. A bit scary, as we had navigated so carefully yesterday and had the charts with the enlargement of the area in our hands and on our computers, but not every hazard is marked and it pays to keep a close eye on the water from the bow, looking for white smears that turn into big rocks at low tide. 

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The day before when we anchored in the afternoon at high tide, this was the view just to our north. Maybe a good place to anchor? 

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The next morning; low tide, and the same view reveals the rocks and shoaling that were covered at high tide. Definitely not a good place to anchor! 

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Best of Times in The Octopus from the kayak. 

 While the tide was low, we went for a 90-minute kayak excursion, our second experience in the kayak and just a great as the first. In fact, it was better, as exploring at low tide means that you see all the cool life forms that are typically covered up. We saw huge orange and purple starfish, crabs, and clams, who at low tide were squirting water into the air like geysers. Bob and I do not have the hang of synchronous paddling yet, but we are trying to improve. We did see a few huge seals frolicking across Waiatt Bay, but they were shy and did not let us approach. 

  

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Karen in the Kayak. 

 After lunch and a siesta, we decided to go for a dinghy ride to see the entire area and scope it out. Unfortunately, our tour was cut short by rain. I was amazed that on a Friday of a long holiday weekend, there were so few boats in this lovely province-maintained marine park. We retreated to our dry boat in our snug anchorage, now shared with just one other boat, a sailboat apparently single-handed by an avid female kayaker. Wonder if she gets lonely? 

 

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Karen shows off her bruises as she hangs the towels out to dry, taking advantage of the sun starting to chase away the rain. 

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The view from our cove over to the neighboring cove. Another stern line holds us fast in this small anchorage. 

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Where's Karen? Just look for the book, blankie and sunbeam. Do Not Disturb! 

One other thing – up here, getting rid of garbage is a chore. Few places accept it, and there’s always a charge. There was a garbage barge moored at the entrance to the marine park, complete with flower boxes and a money box on a chair for you to use the honor system when you dropped off your refuse. How cool is that? 

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The garbage barge outside Octopus entrance. 

  

Rebecca Spit to the Octopus Islands

Rebecca Spit to Surge Narrows: 8.7NM

Surge Narrows to Octopus Islands: 6.7NM

I awaken early on Thursday, perhaps to make up for my sloth of the prior morning. Up at 6:30, I head for the pilothouse to wrap up in a blanket and catch the sunrise. Suffice it to say, it’s another British Columbia day, grey and cloudy, with no sun to be seen. But the best part is that Bob and I don’t care, because it’s so great up here, the weather is secondary.

Boats start leaving from Rebecca Spit quite early, off to catch the tides to somewhere else. We have no need to leave until later in the afternoon, so we had a truly leisurely morning.

Having decided we needed not only a motorized dinghy but also a kayak for this trip, it was time to test our kayak out. We rented a 17’ double kayak, which Bob said was because “if we get into trouble and get caught by the current and swept out to sea, at least we’ll be together.”  Nice sentiment!  Anyway, we decide it’s a grand and windless morning to try out the kayak thing.

Kayaks ride quite low to the water, so we had some fun doing gymnastics to get into the kayak without falling overboard. Actually, it wasn’t too bad. And due to the luck of who fits best where, I get to sit aft, with the rudder controls. It also means that I get to critique Bob’s strokes and paddling technique, while he can see nothing of my mistakes. I like that.

We had a great paddle, but I’m sure we were amusing the natives. We could not seem to figure out how to paddle synchronously. Of course, we ARE two only children, so we each wanted to do it our way. Nevertheless, we skirted the shoreline and saw lots of shells and purple starfish (those are really cool) and generally enjoyed ourselves. Returned to the boat without incident, either.

Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island is a lovely park. Quadra is the largest of the Discovery Islands with a year round population of only 2700. The spit is formed by Heriot Bay and Drew Harbor on one side and the Strait of Georgia on the other. The spit is narrow and has great walking trails and rocky beaches.

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 Karen makes a "legal" trash run at the park on Rebecca Spit.

 

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Low tide at Rebecca Spit.

Our float plan for the day is to go through Surge Narrows (one of those frightening narrows that has strong currents and riptides and back eddies, so it needs to be transited near slack water) and onto the Octopus Islands, one of my most desired destinations. We missed the Octopi last year because we ran out of time, but this year I have 2 nights scheduled.

We retrieved our stern lines without incident and headed up toward the narrows with enough time to stop in at the infamous Surge Narrows store. This is an old fashioned store with goods piled up on shelves, run by nice people and with just enough dock space for us to squeak in.

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Surge Narrows store in all it's glory. Not impressive from the outside, but full of what a boater wants and needs.

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Best of Times viewed from the Surge Narrows Store.

 

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Careful not to walk down the "wrong side" of the docks.

 

There is a post office on the opposite dock open three days a week. We saw a local fellow run over in his dinghy to pick up mail at his mailbox, right there on the dock. Wild.

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The "Post" at Surge Narrows.

The transit through the narrows was uneventful. Guess that’s good? The approach to the Octopus Islands is narrow and rock strewn, but Bob with nerves of steel had no problems. I expected to find the anchorage crowded, but we are currently anchored with only 2 other boats and we feel lucky to be in this pristine and very quiet place without a lot of neighbors. What a great place to relax, and tomorrow another kayak excursion is planned.

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At last, we reach the fabled Octopus Islands.

Gorge Harbour to Rebecca Spit

Gorge Harbour to Rebecca Spit: 9.2NM

I always title these blogs as to what day it is. I force myself to do this because without it, I would have no idea whatsoever where we are on the calendar. Not important to myself, Karen or this trip, but we need such information when contacting the outside world in those infrequent sojourns back to reality.

Speaking of which, the paper, Vancouver Sun arrived today at Gorge Harbor, a twice-weekly event. Normally I never look at newspapers, no matter the title, location nor scarcity in this case. However, the pictures of New Orleans under water that were emblazoned on the front page caused me to stop and add it to my purchase of orange juice.

Having spent the first fourteen years of my life on the Gulf Coast, only one wooden bridge down the road from Louisiana, I remember tracking hurricanes as a boy with my map torn from our local paper. The blank tracking form was provided by the publisher for just such a purpose. I never experienced the likes of a storm of this magnitude when I was a boy. In fact, I would often go out in the hurricanes and pick up shingles as they were blown from their appointed places on roofs unknown. I distinctly remember the sting of the horizontal rain. It felt like small needles on your skin. The drops of water were harmless and somewhat exhilarating for a 10 year old boy.

Unlike those in the path of Katrina, today was going to be a lazy one for the crew of the motor vessel Best of Times. I awoke at the usual time, 6:30, urged on by my internal alarm clock, better known as my bladder.

Karen, however, was cocooned in the berth and was not to be disturbed. So I passed the time reading such things as Yachting and Blue Water Sailing. Appropriate enough given the circumstances. When “it” arose and gave a cackle, the signal had now been given to all that now the official start of the day was upon us.

In a previous edition of this blog, we mentioned that it appears that not much to nothing had been done to address the list of problems with this boat one year ago. One of my favorites is the locking pliers I use for the left burner control on the cooking range.

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Vise Grips to the rescue. By the way, the bacon up here is great!

As the picture illustrates, it is necessary to remove the quintessential black plastic knob and replace it with a pair of locking pliers if you want to maintain control of the temperature. It seems that as soon as the burner heats up, so does the metal stud the knob fits on to. The result is that the plastic knob expands just enough to prevent it from gripping the metal stud, thus rendering the assembly useless.

The day was a lazy one and the weather had adopted the same attitude. It was dead calm in Gorge Harbor. With the dock clear of other boats and the weather and wind on hiatus, it was time for Karen to captain the boat as it left the dock. This would be her first time. A skilled navigator and comfortable at the helm while in route, she had not tackled the duties of the captain while arriving or departing from the dock. It is the most challenging part of the helmsman’s job, navigating tons of floating fiberglass next to an immovable structure.

As I was certain would be the case, she commanded Best of Times off the dock at Gorge Harbor with aplomb. I on the other hand, taking Karen’s role as first mate, was on and off the boat securing the shore power cord, untying lines and tending to the proper stowage of the fenders. I’ll be resuming my Captain’s duties soon; it’s always warm, dry and comfortable in the helm chair.

Karen took us out of Gorge Harbor, a wonderful place, a harbor enclosed on all sides, save for a small passage between sheer cliff walls.

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Narrow entrance to Gorge Harbor. Looked very small the first time. This year it seems much larger.

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Some things are universal, no matter your latitude or longitude.

With lots of room inside, you can always find a comfortable refuge for the night. The harbor is also home to football field sized aquaculture farms. Nothing much more than floating cages with fish inside, the aqua farmers dance across the tops of the tethered structures tending to their “crops”.

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Aqua-culture in Gorge Harbor

Captain Karen took us over to Rebecca Spit. This large but tranquil bay was to be home for the night. Drop anchor in 18 feet of water and into the dinghy to set the stern line. While the pictures you will see are of our stern lines set in place, these images are the result of quite a bit of finagling, and engineering. We must launch ourselves in the dinghy, dragging a 3/8" polypropylene line with us. The line held by Karen wants to turn the dinghy around while I try to make headway to beach the dinghy. Now beaching the dinghy requires that you get up a full head of steam and aim the rubber vessel square at the rocky beach. At just the right instant, so as to not lose all your momentum, you must stop the engine and raise it out of the water so as not to drag the prop on the rocky shore. Miss your timing, and the dinghy stops about two feet short. Now, the embarrassed captain must paddle back a little, lower the motor, restart and take another crack at his target. Somehow I think if Columbus was burdened with these modern inventions, he world have sailed on to Cuba rather than risk an unsuccessful landing.

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Karen "pumps up" the dinghy in preparation for our sojourn. 

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The landing party prepares to attack the beach at Rebecca Spit.

Speaking of miscalculation, our typical procedure for stern tying is to take one end of the line ashore, wrap it around something that will not move and return the bitter end to the yacht. That way, when you’re ready to depart, one simply lets one end go and pulls on the other end, returning the yellow line to its rather large wooden spool. The beauty of this is that there is no second round of beaching of the dinghy required.

So as I walked the line toward the nearest sturdy looking tree, it became apparent that we were, as the passing smart ass remarked to me, “about ten feet short, eh?”

Plan B; tie the stern line to the tree, thus requiring only half as much line. That’s what we did, knowing that sometime tomorrow, we would have to launch the dinghy, throw ourselves onto the rocks and untie before we could ride the tide to our next port of call.

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Dinghy after a successful beaching and stern line mission.

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Stern tie in place at Rebecca Spilt as the kayak stands guard. 

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Best of Times safe and secure, stern line and all in Rebecca Spit. 

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On of the many B.C. Ferries as it passes Rebecca Spit on its regularly scheduled stop at Heriot Bay.

Garden Bay to Gorge Harbour

Garden Bay to Gorge Harbor: 52.3NM 

It’s one of those mornings when I’d like to laze around but our float plan has us going over 52 nautical miles and the weather doesn’t sound like it’s going to be that great in the afternoon.  

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The clouds give the pine trees a morning hug in Garden Bay.  

So up with the anchor and out we go, turning right to head up to Desolation Sound and beyond. 

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Karen practices her twin screw maneuvering techniques. 

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A classic yacht heads south and we make our way north. 

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Passing Grief Point marked by the red and white tower. Appropriately named, today it provided no grief at all.  

This is a long stretch in Malaspina Strait, adjacent to the Strait of Georgia and occasionally just as mean, something we found out last year to our dismay. Anyway, the forecast was for Southeasterly Winds, which are always worth keeping a close eye on, but Bob was confident we’d be fine. We started off with beam seas, which made us roll a bit and caused Bob to turn off the autopilot, but after a while it settled down. I skippered for about 2 hours while Bob took a catnap.  

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Karen at the helm.  

The most interesting thing we heard was a mayday call from an 85-foot motor yacht that struck a rock near Cortes Island. It is very rocky around here and constant vigilance is required. Anyway, the Canadian Coast Guard didn’t mess around, the boat was taking on water and in danger of sinking. They put out the mayday, and within a few minutes, a dive boat was on the scene with a pump, helping keep the boat afloat. We saw the boat later in the day, being towed to Lund by the Coast Guard for repairs. While striking a rock and holing the hull is everyone’s worst nightmare (especially in this 58 degree water), it was really good to see the quick response and how all the nearby mariners pitched in to help.  

Our day was to end in Gorge Harbour, a fabulous anchorage on Cortes Island (but away from that rock I mentioned earlier) that is completely protected from winds. 

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Nice trawler style yacht resting in Gorge Harbor. 

We stayed here last year and found the restaurant, the Old Floathouse, to be so good, we decided to return. We took a spot at the docks, met the owners of a lovely Krogen 42 trawler and were invited aboard for a tour. They had a kitty on board but I didn’t see it, I think it was hiding in the flybridge when we were there. We did some laundry and met two nice people who kept feeding money into the dryer for us so we didn’t have to stand there all afternoon and watch the moss grow while hoping our clothes would eventually get dry. 

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Rainy walk back from the laundry at Gorge Harbor.  

That was really nice of them, because it rained during the afternoon and then a giant rainbow appeared, which we would have missed if stuck in the laundry room. 

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Rainbow over Gorge Harbor dock.  

Had a superb dinner at this small restaurant away from civilization, with cuisine that could hold its own with anything Philly has to offer. I had the best wild salmon in orange confetti sauce (Grand Marnier and orange zest) and Bob had fresh halibut. It was great, and our friends from the laundry were there too, so we bought them dessert and swapped a few stories. 

Wonder what tomorrow will bring?

Ganges Harbour to Garden Bay

Ganges Harbor to Dodd Narrows: 27.9NM

Dodd Narrows to Garden Bay, Pender Harbor: 33.7NM

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Best of Times happy to be in Ganges Harbor.

We awoke in Ganges feeling rested and ready to take on a crossing of the Strait of Georgia with a dry companionway. We decided to make one more quick trip into Ganges before departing, given that we had to time our trip to occur at slack at Dodd Narrows. So we walked around, bought some killer cookies and hand cream at the grocery store, and ended up standing in line waiting for the liquor store to open. It’s a bit scary, seeing yourself waiting impatiently on a Monday morning for the liquor store to open. I shared the sidewalk with two…gentlemen who seemed far more desperate than I for the unlocking of the door! All I was trying to do was replenish our wine supply, as it can be difficult to do so once in Desolation Sound and beyond.

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Walking the docks at Ganges. "No Karen, you cannot take it out for a spin".

Anyway, we had a nice ride to Dodd Narrows, a passageway that we had to get through at slack. It’s a very narrow spit of land where all the water needs to flow through a few time a day, so it makes for some impressive rapids. We arrived early, and had to wait for all the southbound traffic to come through (one at a time, single file) before we could be on our way.

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Our wake on the way to Dodd Narrows. The wise mariner makes a quick passage when the weather is this nice.

The weather forecast was so good for the Strait of Georgia that we decided to skip Nanaimo and just keep on going. The winds were out of the Northwest and we had 1-2 foot chop with swells, but mostly it was just a great ride to Pender Harbor.

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On the lookout! There is lots of tugboat traffic. The tugboat is just above the orange arrow and its tow is noted by the yellow arrow. Between the two is about a quarter of a mile of steel cable hidden below the surface waiting for the mariner that does not give these vessels a wide berth. 

Bob and I like Pender Harbor with its miles of shoreline. We decided to anchor in Garden Bay for the evening. Imagine my surprise when the anchor windlass decided to jam. Bob was telling me to move the cam lever to loosen it. I couldn’t budge it, and he got all grumpy and came charging down from the pilothouse only to find he couldn’t budge it either. A few bangs from the boat’s rusty hammer and we were back in business, with anchor set and lovely views abounding. It had been a long day in terms of hours underway and miles traveled, so we took it easy, ate aboard the boat (Bob’s killer Thai peanut butter chicken and roasted potatoes!) and had a peaceful night.

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Safely at anchor in Garden Bay. 

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Sportsmans' Lodge in Garden Bay. Good eats if you're in the neighborhood. However, tonight, Chef Bob is cooking.