Squirrel Cove to Cordero Islands: Rapids, Tugs & Solitude

We woke to a misty morning in Squirrel Cove, but by the time we weighed anchor, the rain had cleared—perfect timing for a run through the big three: Yuculta, Gillard, and Dent Rapids.

The sun made a welcome return, lighting up the stunning scenery as we cruised north. Not a pleasure craft in sight—just us, the coastline, and a few hardworking boats. A tug pushing a barge slid past us at Dent Narrows, and another hauled a sprawling log tow as we neared the anchorage. It’s always a show out here.

The wind picked up in the afternoon, but conditions stayed comfortable. We debated pushing through the next set of rapids, but the timing wasn’t right. So instead, we tucked in just outside Greene Point Rapids—an absolutely lovely anchorage. Gusts are topping 20 knots, but OceanFlyer is riding steady, and the late-day sunshine is a welcome contrast to yesterday’s drizzle.

Tomorrow, we take on Johnstone Strait. The forecast looks promising—but as always, we’ll believe it when we see it.

Squirrel Cove Lay Day

We ran the distance yesterday while the weather held, making it all the way to Squirrel Cove—so today, we earned a lay day.

With steady rain tapping the deck, there’s no better excuse to stay put and enjoy life on the hook. We stayed cozy aboard OceanFlyer, dedicating the day to gourmet meal prep, sketching out a custom tool design for the boat, and embracing the fine art of loafing. Sometimes, recharging is the most productive thing you can do—especially with a full day of rapid-running on the horizon tomorrow.

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Nanaimo to Squirrel Cove: A Crossing Worth the Push

After two blustery days pinned down in Nanaimo, we were thrilled to find the Strait of Georgia glassy and kind. With less than 10 knots on the nose and under a foot of chop, we seized the window.

Dodging the Queen of Cowichan on our way out, we slipped into the Strait and aimed straight across—no Whiskey Gulf activity today.

The plan was to stop at the Texada Boat Club in Sturt Bay—quiet, quirky, and a great alternative to always-busy Pender. No power or water, but it’s a charming, well-kept stop with a short walk to town and a dock that keeps getting better, thanks to transient boaters’ support.

But as the miles slid by effortlessly, we decided to stretch the day and push on to Squirrel Cove. Not a soul in sight until the top of Texada, where we spotted three Orca gliding the shoreline—a rare and welcome sight after a few lean years.

By the time we dropped anchor in Squirrel Cove, we had the place nearly to ourselves. Just one sailboat joined us later, a rare treat in a spot that’s usually a floating village by summer. Early-season cruising has its perks—peace, space, and a little magic.

a rare event. an almost empty squirrel Cove.

Layday in Nanaimo

Before pushing north toward Alaska, today was all about chores and a little creative packing. First up: rinse the salt off the boat, do laundry, and top off the freshwater tanks. With that squared away, we made a supply run for tomorrow’s dinner — a rotisserie chicken and a side — but the main event was our pickup at Nesvog Meats.

With the freezers already stuffed to the gills, finding room for the new bounty was like playing a game of galley Tetris. I converted a drawer of our Vitrifrigo fridge into extra freezer space. Miraculously, it all fit — but we’re officially maxed out. Time to move on!

lunch was, of course at Penny’s palapa

Both the pulled pork nachos , show above, and the halabut tacos are highy recommended

after lunch, a stroll on the harbour promanade and a mini-concert

The day wrapped with another spectacular sunset over Nanaimo Harbour. Tomorrow’s forecast promises lighter winds and calmer seas — perfect timing to get back underway.

another beautiful sunst in Nanaimo Harbour

Princess Cove to Nanaimo: A Salty Sprint North

We slipped lines early this morning, aiming to catch Dodd Narrows just before the 9 a.m. slack. The run north was a dream—calm waters, clear skies, and barely another pleasure boat in sight.

As we neared the Narrows, a small sailboat and a catamaran hovered nervously, waiting for a southbound tug and barge to barrel through with the last push of current on their stern. Once they passed, the parade north began. With 2 knots of current on the nose, the sailboats struggled for speed, but OceanFlyer powered through with ease.

Exiting Dodd, the conditions shifted fast. The breeze kicked up, the seas grew, and our once-pristine decks got a proper saltwater baptism. Approaching Nanaimo, we were welcomed by the whoosh of a Harbour Air floatplane landing just off our starboard side—a reminder that Nanaimo is always bustling.

We tucked into a slip on the inside of S Dock at the W.E. Mills outer moorage. Strong winds tried to shove us off, but with a few extra lines and some teamwork, OceanFlyer was snug and secure with a front-row seat to all the harbor action.

Nanaimo isn’t a destination for lounging—it’s a vital provisioning stop before crossing the Strait of Georgia. Over the years, we’ve curated a list of reliable suppliers:

• MacLean’s Specialty Foods: A must-visit for specialty cheeses, English bacon, and irresistible sweets. Even with new owners and ongoing renovations (including a future coffee bar), the soul of the place is the same.

• Nesvog Meats: An outstanding butcher. We pre-order via email, pick it up frozen and perfectly packed—saving us hours of chasing down supplies and repackaging on board.

• Harbour Chandlery: Just a short walk away and a treasure trove of boating and fishing gear. Serious eye candy for anyone who loves gear.

Lunch was dockside at Penny’s Palapa—an old favorite for good reason. After light provisioning at Thrifty Foods, we wrapped up the day with a relaxed dinner at La Stella.

port of Nanaimo and the city at sunset

Alaska beckons, but first, a good night’s sleep in Nanaimo's lively harbor.