Ucluelet to Effingham Bay

Weather is predicted to be winds 20-25 with 3 meter seas and most of the boats on the docks are still here as we make breakfast. The whale watching boats on channel 61A are complaining about the ride and not many animals in sight. Apparently the whales don’t like to come into the shallow water when the swells are present. Can you blame them?

The busy working docks at Ucluelet

Our plan is to cast off about 11am. The GRIB weather files are predicting that the winds should ease about then, and as we have a short trip today over to the Broken Group of islands, we figured we could put up with some weather for the hour or so it takes to cross.

Karen is ready to go

The whale watching boats confirmed the winds were easing, but that the swells were increasing. That is exactly what we found. It was a hobby horse ride with a few rollers on the beam thrown in to keep it interesting. Karen was wedged into the corner of the galley and refused to look at the larger swells from the beam.

The fish boats unload their holds as we depart Ucluelet

Fortunately it was only an hour’s ride over to the Broken Group and as we worked our way in between the islands and enter the Group, the swells calmed.

Effingham Bay is the largest anchorage in the Broken Group and affords the most protection in all weather, so that is where we are headed. It was not our original plan, but until things calm down some, we will take refuge here. Alaskan Dream was the first boat to anchor in the bay, but we expect more as the afternoon and evening passes.

Calm Effingham Bay

Three boats also made Effingham Bay their choice, with a fifth sailboat coming in at last light.

We have room for a late arrival

Another episode of LOST, Season Three capped the night after a dinner of Karen’s favorite pizza. I have gotten pretty good at making pizza from scratch including the dough. By making the dough in advance as well as some of the ingredients such as caramelized onions and sirloin steak, it becomes an easy meal to put together. Just throw on some cheese, veggies and whatever else strikes a chord. Bake it for 14 minutes and top it off with Fig Balsamic Glaze and you have a happy crew.

Ucluelet, Lay Day

Karen and I enjoyed a quiet night at the docks and were slow to get going in the morning. I walked up to the Wharfinger’s  office to grab some Wi-Fi so I could download the latest GRIB weather files. We gave the boat a good cleaning before we walked into town. Our goal was to visit a native art gallery but after a 20 minute walk, we found the galley closed despite the website that said it was open on Sundays.

Fishing resort housed in an old ship. The fishing boats are out.

The fishing fleet has returned. 

The Co-Op is a great resource

Disappointed, we headed back to the CO-OP to grab a few last-minute supplies. The butcher at the CO-OP has his own smoker and sells his delicious bacon at the CO-OP. I did not try his other offerings, but if they are anything like the bacon, I know I would like them. To our surprise, when we rounded one corner in a residential neighborhood,  we encountered two deer in someone’s yard, casually grazing on the fresh-cut grass (Note the open front door...maybe the deer live there?) We were also bummed that Ukee Dogs was closed. Oh well, next time we'll get ourselves one of the those famous Ukee Dogs.

Not much to eat here

Karen ogles the Ukee Dog shop

52 steps down to the working docks on the main inlet to Ucluelet

The town of Ucluelet has a great vibe

It would not be a proper provisioning stop with a visit to the liquor store

I took advantage of our time in port to make bread, a new batch of pancake mix and a fresh batch of pizza dough. To save some time tomorrow, I also cooked the flank steak and made caramelized onions for the pizza. After all that hard work, we visited the Floathouse restaurant at the end of the docks for a beer. Our decision to sit outside did not work out as the prevailing wind made our spot a bit chilly, such that it eventually drove us off.

The Floathouase Restaurant at the Ucluelet docks

For dinner we had glazed pork tenderloin accompanied by rosemary roasted potatoes followed by yet another episode of LOST.

Bacchante Bay to Ucluelet

Today we are taking advantage of the good weather to head directly to  Ucluelet. The course we chose was out through Hayden Pass rather than give Sulfur Pass a try because Karen overruled Bob for the simpler route. Our departure at 7:09 AM was greeted by bright, sunny clear skies. Oh yes...did we mention we were all alone last night?

Great morning in Bacchante Bay

Karen took the first leg and I relieved her abeam Lennard Island. She spent her “off-duty” time updating our logbook. We stayed quite close the shore because it was a calm day, we had hardly a ripple on the surface. Saw some other boats and a handful of fishing boats. We spotted Tofino from afar and were able to find the Wickaninnish Inn and Long Beach through the binoculars. The ride turned a bit “rolly”, so Karen stopped reading, complaining that the motion was making her feel sick. However, the motion was not so bad that she refused my offer of meatloaf sandwiches for lunch !

Another lighthouse...I've lost track

As we approached Ucluelet, we felt the effects of the Southeast winds as they came up. Took pictures of Amphitrite point, lots of small fishing boats. The long channel to Ucluelet is narrow but very well marked.  Almost at the end of the channel, we turned west and entered the small boat boat basin and found a spot on the docks. Some nice folks grabbed the lines which helped us out a lot,  as the wind was pushing Alaskan Dream off the docks.

Our walk to the wharfinger’s office found him gone, so we continued up to the town to see what we could find. We found the liquor store (a good one), the convenience store  (OK) and the Co-Op that was awesome. But most importantly, we found Norwood’s, the restaurant Karen had researched as the best in town and where we have reservations tonight at “The Chef’s Table”.

Back at the boat, we relaxed on the flybridge to watch lots of boats come in and find an opening on the docks. On the way to dinner, we carried our garbage up to the dumpster and also located the wharfinger on his bike. So we took a moment to check in and pay our moorage.

Our “table” at Norwood’s was a couple of high comfortable chairs in front of the open kitchen at a little bar overlooking all the food prep. It was amazing eye candy for both of us and everyone was so nice. We enjoyed “Voluptuous” wine from British Columbia. I enjoyed Korean pork tacos as a starter followed by great salmon and Karen devoured scallops and the most amazing octopus with truffle mashed potatoes and Asian chili sauce followed by some local halibut for her entree. Dessert for me was a chocolate mousse with molten caramel inside and Karen had Goat cheese cheesecake. Mega-super yummy! This restaurant can stand up to anything in any big city, East or West coast.

Karen slept through yet another episode of LOST! 

Bottleneck Cove to Bacchante Bay

Our quiet night turned into a beautiful morning with no wind and clear skies. We are in no hurry to get going today because our next destination, Bacchante Bay, is only 12 miles away. The sailboat that shared the cove with us left as I was making breakfast, leaving us alone to enjoy the morning.

Calm morning in Bottleneck Cove

While the winds were reported to be approaching 25 knots not far from us in the ocean, our passage along the inside was calm. There was not much to see along the way except for the beauty of this wonderful part of the country. We poked our nose into the small bay in front of the Megin River before continuing our journey.

Not the normal water color

As we approached Bacchante Bay, the water turned noticeably brown and then a very red-brown. There must be more than just tannin that comes from the river at the head of the bay. The soil must contain some iron ore to develop such a noticeable reddish tint. We also wondered if it could be a red algae bloom; the so called “Red Tide”. We anchored abeam a small rock at the head of the bay populated with seals. They were clinging to the last little bits of the rock as it was covered by the rising tide.

We waited until a little after half high tide and launch the dinghy in hopes of going up Watta Creek. It was hard to find a way into the creek and we explored a few different ways of getting over a shallow bar. But we did not make it more than three quarters of a mile up the river before being stopped by rocks. We probably could have made it in the kayaks and or by adjusting our time a little later in the high tide. Maybe next time!

Forward progress stopped by the rocky bar

We love to explore rivers, always something new around the corner

Back on the boat we took it easy and did some planning. After checking the weather, we decided to head for Ucluelet rather than spending the next day at West White Pine Cove. That leaves that destination for our next trip on the coast. We had a calm night and enjoyed yet another episode of LOST.

Santa Gertrudis Cove To Bottleneck Bay Via Hot Springs

Alaska Dream was rocked by a few swells as we awoke at 6:30am. Karen checked the weather on the VHF radio and based on the forecast, we decided to go now to avoid the North West winds as we passed Estevan Point. To expedite our departure, we forego showers.  Once underway, breakfast was reheated cornbread with butter and honey. It was a perfect quick and easy breakfast for an early start.

Saying goodbye to Nootka light

 

The sun was out and the sea and wind, although up, gave us a nice ride. Karen took the helm as we rounded Estevan Point and was greeted by a couple of whales. We did not see any other pleasure boats along our route as has been the case for most of our trip down the West Coast of Vancouver Island. However, as we headed into Hot Springs Cove, we discovered where all the people were. There were a few cruisers anchored and all manner of “go fast” boats shuttling people from Tofino to and from the Hot Springs. As the docks were a flurry of activity with the tourists coming and going, we anchored out behind “Innchanted”, a floating bed & breakfast that is permanently anchored in the bay It was pretty windy. First was lunch, and once we were confident that the anchor was well set, we deployed the bridle and launched the dinghy for our trip to the docks and, ultimately, the Hot Springs. We had some trepidation as we had watched a nearby sailboat drag extremely close to the rocks as her owners came dinghying back at full speed to save her.

Busy docks at Hot Springs

Karen treks along the boardwalk at Hot Springs

It took us 40 minutes to walk to the Hot Springs. It’s a long walk with lots of steps, both up and down. But  the elevated walkway is well maintained and features endless planks that have been carved by the crews that have visited the Hot Springs. There was even one that said “Will you marry me?” I hope she said yes, because it would have been a very long walk back if not.

At the end of the trail, we found lots of people, but it was not overcrowded. Like all natural hot springs we have visited, you are at the mercy of Mother Nature for access and comfort. We first tried the closest and easiest to get to pool, but it was too cold. Then we tried our mountain goat impressions and made our way to the waterfall, but it was too hot. Karen continued her decent to the other pool, climbing over the other people that were, by necessity of the geological formations, were along her route.

"Come on in, the water is"...hot, cold, stinky... 

I retreated and got dressed and explored the area with my camera. After a while I saw Karen emerging out from the other side of the Hot Springs, having climbed some very large boulders to make her exit. This is not our cup of tea, risking life and limb on craggy, slippery moss-covered rocks to sit in stinky hot mineral water with people you don’t know. Compared to the pristine and uncrowded hot springs experience in Haida Gwai, this didn't compare. But we checked the box and when asked if we have been here, we can say yes.

Beautiful view from the overlook at the Hot Springs

If it were not for these people, you would never know the Hot Springs are there when viewed from the sea.

Our return walk took about 45 minutes to make it back to the boat. The wind was fresh and we battled the dinghy as the gusts would give it a mind of its own. Finally safe in its cradle, we headed inside for a nice fresh water shower.

We found the boardwalk more interesting than the Hot Springs themselves

We relaxed and consumed a fresh monkey bar we purchased on the docks as we watched the endless parade of boats and seaplanes dropping off and picking up tourists. We started our trip to Bottleneck Bay about 4:30. The ride was chop on top of swells, but we were happy compared to the people in the little “go-fast” tourist boats that were getting slammed by the seas. Karen took us into Bottleneck Bay through a cute small entrance. Once inside, we found a large bay with one sailboat, Autumn Winds at anchor.

Dinner was “yummy” Thai peanut chicken accompanied by another episode of LOST. We were both tired and went to bed early.