Crescent Inlet to Beresford Inlet via Tanu & Windy Bay

A hardy breakfast in preparation of a busy day

It’s another early start for our first day of experiencing Haida culture. We have two stops planned at Haida historic sites. 

Our neighbor in Crescent Inlet

A pretty morning as the clouds lift

Karen at the helm

Jordan ferries the fleet in

In less than two hours we were constructing an all-boat raft in the anchorage at Tanu. Despite the rules that say they only take 12 guests at a time, the watchmen were very gracious and took all 16 of us at once. To keep our impact to a minimum, Jordan from Deception ferried us all to shore in their dinghy.

The watchmen were Sean and Helen, and they were both super hosts. Both were very knowledgeable and eager to share. It was a long walk through the wooded areas on a path lined with seashells. The shells let everyone know where to walk so we did not intrude on the sites themselves. We saw the remains of the Haida village with the roof beams on the longhouses about the only recognizable structure. We enjoyed seeing the remaining poles in the village. Everything is covered in moss and Mother Nature reclaims that which the Haida built. It is part of the Haida culture to allow all this to decay and return to the earth. 

We learned that the Haida were fierce fighters and explorers as remains of their canoes have been found as far south as California. A healthy diet with plenty of protein, from both land and sea, led to big men who were often 6 feet tall. Apparently they towered over their adversaries. They did raid other tribes for women and children to expand the gene pool beyond the two Haida clans: the Eagle and the Raven. It is so sad that the European explorers brought disease, smallpox and measles that almost eradicated the Haida nation.

Mother Nature reclaims all

Looking our to the protected bay in front of the village

Watchman Sean shares his passion for the history of the Haida

The Watchman's cabin

The tour was great and we also got to see the watchman’s cabin and some of the old pictures they have of the settlement in its heyday in the late 1800s. It was sunny and the anchorage was very calm.

We then set out for Windy Bay and as we neared we could see how the Bay earned it name: it was very windy and the seas were churned up. To our surprise, Capt. Rich decided to raft all the boats together again. As we approached, we could see the bottom paint of the other boats below the boot stripes.

Sea starting to build

Every fender was put into play between us and Change of Latitude. I spent an extra 15 minutes trying to find the optimum placement of the fenders so they would provide the most protection for both boats.  Again, Jordan ferried all the crews to the shore and he and Capt. Rich remained on the raft to tend to the fenders and keep anchor watch.

The watchman couple, Frank & Denise, greeted us. This site is very different, with less to see. There is a “modern” longhouse; the Blinking Eye meetinghouse that was that was built in the mid-80s for meetings of those who protested logging on island. Now it is a nice shelter for kayakers. Frank told us they got far fewer visitors than Tanu; 300 so far this year versus Tanu’s 1000 visitors. That is due to the site itself being less easy to access and the fact, in my opinion, that there is less history to see. 

Blinking Eye Longhouse

Trekking through the woods and streams

However, we took a marvelous 45 minute walk through the forest and saw the largest spruce tree in North America. It is over 900 years old. We emerged at the Creek and Frank was there to ferry us over to the other sides so we did not have to backtrack along the path.

Karen and Kathy stand below the largest Spruce tree

Jordan, our hero

Meanwhile, back at the boat raft, things were turning into a bit of a disaster and Capt. Rich wanted us all back on the boats ASAP. Jordan ferried us out to Alaskan Dream. Earlier, he untied her from the raft and re-anchored her away from the raft, as the raft was moving up, down and sideways in the wind and swell. Moving her prevented damage. The interior was tossed about but nothing was misplaced other than a lot of our spices! We raised the anchor from the inside helm because it was too dangerous to be on the bow. In a couple of minutes we were underway

Our destination was Beresford Inlet that has a mile-long drying bar to navigate. We throttled back to time our arrival near high tide. Being first off, we led the way, with Change of Latitude on our stern. After we set the anchor we invited Dream Catcher alongside for drinks and appetizers aboard Alaska Dream. Jordan joined us for a while to relax and enjoy a drink after a crazy day.

Unlike Windy Bay, Beresford Inlet was calm and quiet.

Gordon Cove to Crescent Inlet

We got under way before eight, headed for Crescent Inlet. Since we choose to go slower than the rest of the fleet to conserve fuel, our early start put us in the lead with Dream Catcher on our stern. Abeam Olive Inlet, we caught a glimpse of a few seals but there was not much more wildlife to see.

As we approached Louise Narrows, we slowed down so Deception could take the lead through the shallow and narrow waterway. Louise Narrows is a dredged channel and serves as a useful shortcut. As we arrived on a rising tide, we got a good look at the dredged earth on either side of the channel. Alaskan Dream took up position at the end of the fleet so we got some good pictures during the transit. The depths were shallow and the current was running, so the helm was busy keeping Alaskan Dream in the center (deepest part) of the channel.

No doubt where you need to put the boat

The channel has a few turns along the way

Clear water makes it easy to see the things to avoid

The water was very clear so we had a good look at the obstructions on either side of the channel and saw a depth as low as 5 feet under her keel. All in all it was a very interesting passage and a nice break from the open water cruising.

The Mother Goose "train"

Back into open water

Looking back into Louise Narrows

Exiting the channel, we made our way to Crescent Inlet. This Anchorage is one of those where it seems to take forever to get to the head of the inlet. Our watermaker wasn't working so we came alongside Deception to take on some fresh water. She was anchored quite far from the head, so we could not see any bears on the shore. Later we got a report from the other boats that they too did not see any bears so we didn't miss anything!

It was a peaceful night. Dinner was delicious King Salmon with hoisin glaze and baked curried sweet potatoes. “Mega-YUM!”, says Karen.

Part of the fleet anchored in Crescent Inlet

Patos goes our to explore in her dinghy

Queen Charlotte City to Gordon Cove

Never could figure out what the author of this sign intended

They say you should never start a blog with the weather. But, since weather plays such an important role in our cruising, let’s start with the weather. The ceiling this morning is only 150ft, but the visibility underneath is good. So unless the ceiling descends into fog, it should not be a factor in our travels.

I got up early, took a shower then walked the docks looking for subjects to photograph. Soon we were casting off and I turned the helm over to Karen to make breakfast.

We led the fleet for a while. It is a long way back out to Sandspit, where we made a right turn and followed the coastline after crossing the bar near the green buoy. It felt like we would never make enough headway to get past Sandspit! It was a lovely and calm day, but there was not much to see in the way of wildlife.  After a long while, we entered Cumshewa Inlet, where we saw a Moresby Explorer dinghy loaded with people (who waved) and then saw their facility in the distance. We kept going til we reached Gordon Cove, where we anchored then dropped the dinghy to go explore with part of the Mother Goose motley crew.

The fleet all lined up

We began our explorations with a walk through the dense forest. There was a great logging road and subsequent trail that made the exploration easy.

"If those guys made it, I guess it's OK"

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The lush forest always fascinates me

I always ponder the idea of how the native people managed to navigate though these forests

Even the pros foul their props

We also explored the area up the inlet under the bridge near Moresby Camp. Jordan was one step ahead of us in his dinghy as we followed in his “footsteps” under the old bridge and back to an old cabin. You never know what you’ll find, and that’s the fun of it all.

Jordan says" Check out the camp past this bridge" 

Home sweet home to someone

"Red sky at night....". Let's hope that old saying is true.

Queen Charlotte City

Sausage, tomato and Asiago cheese omelette with a balsamic drizzle

Today is a lay day in Queen Charlotte City. Well almost. We all have to go to the Gwaii Haanas orientation. Every visitor to the park must do this, get his or her pass and fill out some paperwork.

NW Explorations arranged for a bus to take us to the orientation center 8 kilometers down the road.

Climbing the hill from the docks to get on the bus

Great orientation by the Park Ranger

All assembled at 9:30 in the orientation room and the park ranger went though a 90-minute PowerPoint presentation of what we could expect and what was expected from us. The Ranger, Kae (who grew up here), was great and the presentation very thorough.

The orientation is held at the Kaay Centre in Skidegate. This impressive set of buildings also houses the Haida Gwaii museum and the Parks Canada Headquarters. Well worth the visit, beyond the orientation. In addition to our briefing and passes, each person is given a 100 page bound booklet about everything you want to know about the Gwai Haanas. It covers various historic sites, weather, tides, wildlife and even rats. We were also given many specialized informational brochures about more timely issues such as the preservation of the Abalone, a threatened species in these waters.

Kaay Centre in Skidegate

Lots to see in the museum

After two hours, the bus came to take us back to Queen Charlotte. Alaskan Dream and Dream Catcher asked the bus driver to take us two more kilometers to the actual town of Skidegate so we could look around and do some shopping for native art.

Kathy and Lance from Dream Catcher joined us as we walked the very small village. There is a gift shop, and some artists’ studios to visit. The walk to the very famous Haida artist Ben Davidson is about  one kilometer out of town. His work is impressive and very expensive. For just a picture of one of his famous works, you pay what you would hope you could buy the original carving. To our good fortune, he was in his studio working on a commission and was most gracious to explain his art and craft to us. I’m glad we walked the extra mile.

The native culture remains a source of pride here

You find that native pride in the most unexpected places

We hailed a taxi back to Queen Charlotte to have lunch at Queen B’s.  All enjoyed their lunch and we would recommend it if you find yourself here. They also serve breakfast.

After lunch we did some provisioning, starting with the closest store and working our way out. Our first stop was the convenience store where I paid  $4.79 for a Haagen Dags bar. Next we stopped at the organic and natural foods store ending up at the supermarket about a half mile west on Oceanview Drive.

The best little lure house in the Charlottes, so says the sign

We picked up a few things we were running short of, such as half and half, coffee, oranges and potatoes.

The docks at Queen Charlotte

Working harbor log tug

All business, no frills in the tug command center

Dream Catcher was still anchored out and in need of water, so we invited them to raft to us, so they could fill their tanks before we departed for the Gwaii Haanas tomorrow. Lance took Jordan up on his offer to drive the boat given small confines of the harbor.

Jordan and Lance bring Dream Catcher along side

I (Bob) made a mojito or two on the boat, and then we walked up to Howler's Bistro for dinner, sitting out on the balcony overlooking the harbor. Nachos and wings were our food of choice, along with beer and a piece of caramel chocolate turtle cheesecake.

As we walked back to the boat, we went into the liquor store under the bistro and picked up a 12 pack of Okanagan Springs pale ale. $30! Ouch. But needed!

Queen Charlotte City has good power and good water on the docks and provisioning close by. However, it is first come first served with rafting needed in busy times. The other option is Sandspit. It has a beautiful new  marina, but it is a long walk and ferry ride back across to Queen Charlotte City.

Queen Charlotte is home to working boats, but friendly to us cruisers

Spicer Islands to Queen Charlotte City

Today is the day of the “Big Crossing. For our 75 mile day, we expect the wind to be light and the seas calm. The sunrise on our stern was picture perfect, matching the rest of the perfect conditions. This is one of the two intimidating crossings back and forth to the Haida Gwaii across Hecate Strait, and it looks as if this will be unbelievably good.

Sunrise departure

We were underway by 5:30 am. Karen and I rotated watches, 2 hours on and 2 hours off. It was very calm and we had our eye out for wildlife. Emmelina aboard Deception spotted a humpback and even some Minke whales but from our position we could see neither. 

The weather was so ideal I beckoned other boats in our group to pass me  to starboard, where the light was perfect for a “portrait” of them during the crossing. Inspired by as much boredom as anything else, a couple of the boats did “pose” for pictures.

Change of Latitude poses for a photo

Happy crew aboard Patos

We were surprised to see the Haida Gwaii islands from over 50 miles away. This was both good and bad, as it kept us from feeling like we were in the middle of a vast ocean, but it also seems to make the passage drag on when you can see your target but it never appears to get any closer.

Smoooooth seas

The direct approach to Queen Charlotte City is guarded by a bar that dictates that you steer a more northerly course and pick up a marked channel. This adds to the feeling of “are we ever going to get there” because once you enter the channel that runs along the island’s shore, you still have two hours to go. As we got into the marked channel, the waves and wind picked up some, but not much.

Although Emmelina had talked by phone to the “harbour master” at Queen Charlotte City to make sure that we had berths at the dock, attempts to reach him on channel 16 proved to be fruitless. After about three hails, Prince Rupert radio came on the frequency to inform Mother Goose that there is no harbor master at Queen Charlotte City.

So Deception told the rest of the fleet to stand outside the breakwater as they entered to see if they could find space for us all. There first report was that there was little if any dock space available and that the larger boats, ourselves included, should start looking for space in the Bearskin Bay anchorage outside the harbor.

I proceeded over to the area noted in the Douglass and Douglass guidebook and just as I completed my anchor circle, confirming the needed depth and lack of obstruction, Deception called to say that a fishing boat was just leaving and that a couple of other boats were moving to make room for us.

Deception called us in and we proceed to negotiate the small entrance and narrow channel lined with working boats. Once inside, we found our slip and Jordan, who had been dropped off earlier by Deception, waiting to catch our lines. The wind was 10-15 knots in a direction that would blow us off the docks. Add to that, there was just enough space for Alaskan Dream, but no more, between an old log tug and a small sailboat. I used all the tricks I knew to get in, and we were secured in sort order to the docks at Queen Charlotte.

Just as we approached the docks, sailboats started to leave so we called in Deception into that space. The one 46 and two 42 Grand Banks rafted three deep in the only other space on the docks. Lance and Kathy on Dream Catcher said they would prefer to anchor out, so I gave them the coordinates of the anchor spot I had just surveyed.

Three of the fleet rafted in Queen Charlotte City

The busy docks at Queen Charlotte City

We settled in and rested a bit, then headed up the ramp to dinner at Oceana Chinese & Continental.  We had decent Chinese food and beer, and then quickly found ourselves back aboard Alaskan Dream after a quick stop at the Visitor's Centre. We were ready for a good night’s sleep before tomorrow’s required briefing on the rules and regulations for boaters in the Gwaii Haanas national park reserve.

Shabby looking eagle on a shabby looking boat